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#Post#: 1275--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: sut Date: January 20, 2014, 4:47 pm
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1/4 x1 bolts for the rotor and sheet metal screws for the top I
don't remember what size screws (1" long) I screwed directly
into the wood and plastic wing tips (which are screwed into the
wood ) everything was pre drilled to avoid cracking the wood or
plastic . So far I have not had a bit of trouble (knock on wood
) Ps everything was also silicone in place. I didn't bother
painting the metal bracing I figured if it rusts! its been up
long enough and would replace them (they are gun metal black)
#Post#: 1278--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: lynx wind Date: January 20, 2014, 5:29 pm
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Stainless .0025" is going to be Ok to drill. Just sandwich
between some clamped wood so when it grabs it doesn't spin up.
Or maybe a punch would be better. I'm sure you'll find a way.
The stainless strap I use is 20 awg for the Gull 160 and 24 awg
for the Gull 40. Not sure how that equates to inches.
I prefer deeply set studs epoxied into the spars and then
bolting them with lock washers and nuts.
#Post#: 1284--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: sut Date: January 21, 2014, 7:45 am
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what I would do is use the steel strapping from a pallet or
something and after you have everything set or a year down the
road if and when it looks like its bad just replace it with ss
or new strapping. and its easy to drill (easier )
#Post#: 1338--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: lynx wind Date: January 27, 2014, 10:16 am
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Yes, tried that. What happens is as one blade receives more
force and torque it pulls the other tips and sets up a killer
wobble. The best support would be two diagonal braces from a
tip to adjacent rotors. Super strong but starts looking
aesthetically overbuilt. I compromised with one support from
each tip. This works well as long as the rotor is stiff enough
to resist twisting. I use 3/4" material on the Gull 160.
My Gull 160 is doing nicely in this arctic blast. No wobble in
gusty 15-40 mph blasts, just keeps going around. I have been
playing with some MPPT. Actually the best setup for the single
phase alt is a plain old rectifier. If you watch the amps, it
just tracks with the wind. The amplitude and frequency combine
to fit the power to the wind and it allows the turbine to spin
up. Both MPPT's I have tried lug the turbine down to below
60-80 rpm most of the time. Actually what the MPPT does it will
let the turbine speed up and then pulls too much power and then
the process starts over.
M : )
#Post#: 1341--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: burnit0017 Date: January 27, 2014, 11:53 am
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Hi, do you have a look up table algorithm for your MPPT?
#Post#: 1343--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: lynx wind Date: January 27, 2014, 4:13 pm
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No idea on the algorithm. The one MPPT is the power jack 300
GTI. It does Ok if the solar panel is at least at 50% output.
The Gull just rides on top the solar voltage, but if the solar
panel is shaded or at night, the MPPT pulls a 1/4 amp, if
voltage rises it steps up to 1/2 amp. Those steps are too much
and too slow for wind.
The other MPPT is a new unit from the AirBreeze which is
comparable to the Gull 160 in output. What it does is the
turbine will charge a capacitor to above battery voltage and
then dumps to the battery. The turbine will pick up rpm to
where it is charging at .25, .5 or 1.0 amp or more and then the
capacitor discharges to the load. This causes the turbine to
slow down and speed up. Seems like a very crude way to match
wind power to a load.
The regular rectifier allows the turbine to cruise evenly across
the range. if it were a 3 phase alt it would probably never
pick up speed because a 3 phase alt puts out close to smooth DC
voltage.
#Post#: 1389--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: sut Date: February 1, 2014, 2:33 pm
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I would just replace it when it went bad
#Post#: 1423--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: lynx wind Date: February 3, 2014, 6:08 pm
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Pictures? I haven't kept track of what blades and construction
you currently are using.
#Post#: 1455--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: sut Date: February 7, 2014, 8:15 am
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Would adding magnets to the diy 75 help in increasing it's
output? Now it has 6 magnets so would 12 be better or 9 or do
you have to add more coils to increase its output ?
#Post#: 1458--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: sut Date: February 7, 2014, 5:43 pm
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I see what your saying but what if you just doubled the amount
of magnets on the same plate you have 6 on plate now what if you
placed 6 more on same plate along side of the ones you already
have( the space in between would be much smaller )
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