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#Post#: 2--------------------------------------------------
Seagull 75 DIY Discussion
By: admin Date: March 14, 2013, 8:26 am
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Thank you to everyone who has purchased the Seagull 75 plans.
I found a better and more secure way to attach the airfoil to
the ribs. I had a problem on my second blades where the resin
started dissolving or softening the contact adhesive and two
blades popped open while the resin was curing. I fixed it but
this shouldn't happen.
The change is to use a 5 minute epoxy and just use all around
the three edges, pull the airfoil onto the rib formers and seal.
I still used some staples at the trailing edge while the five
minute cured and also made sure things were straight. After the
five minute epoxy cured I pulled the staples. The blades were
perfect and ready for resin.
#Post#: 19--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull 75 DIY Discussion
By: admin Date: March 19, 2013, 4:13 pm
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Good question. I was worried when I built mine that the dowels
might be short, and I found 48" so I figured just cut them after
things were together. 36" would be fine.
#Post#: 44--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: admin Date: March 26, 2013, 10:22 pm
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You could beef up those #10 screws to 1/4" if you think there is
room. But it isn't just the three screws, it is also the 3/8"
pipe nipple going down through. The three screws are more for
the torque. The way I tested this is I put the whole assembly
in a vice with a cross bolt and then torqued on the stator. I
couldn't break it.
The weakest point in the whole Seagull VAWT will be the bracing.
I have gone to using 3/8" wide 20 gauge stainless steel straps.
Wire stretches and then puts stress on the joint between blade
and rotor.
A lot of people ask why i don't just use two rotors. You can
but then wobble becomes a serious issue. The slightest out of
balance from top to bottom sets up a really bad vibration and
robs power.
I like the VAWT spinning like a top. There is much less side
force on the bearings.
#Post#: 48--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: Windcatcher Date: March 28, 2013, 8:40 am
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The reason I went with 1.5" EMT is because a lot of people have
AirBreeze turbines they want to switch for a VAWT and the
AirBreeze uses 1.5". But, I have found aesthetically the Gull
Vawts look much nicer on larger diameter poles. You can stay
with 1.5" and surround the steel with a PVC tube. Its already
white and looks good. You could put the PVC in a flange and
screw it onto the stator base as well. PVC alone isn't strong
enough in high winds.
The only two crucial things to consider are pole strength and
not using any steel bolts under the magnets.
#Post#: 71--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: lynx wind Date: April 29, 2013, 9:34 pm
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Looks good. Great idea, because there is a tendency for the
brace to pull down the inside edge of the blade tip. Ideally
the brace would come right off the tip with no bend.
#Post#: 96--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: kevin1365 Date: June 10, 2013, 3:45 am
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Hi Folks,
Just a quick thought,
Is it possible to downscale the plans to the smaller 20x20 unit
?
Great work by the way...[font=comic sans ms][/font]
#Post#: 101--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: lynx wind Date: June 21, 2013, 8:26 pm
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You can scale this design up or down. The geometry will work as
long as you scale everthing. You will need to use smaller wire
on a smaller unit. The coils will be smaller and I use 1" x .5"
x .125" neo magnets for the smaller alternator.
You will end up with a unit that can put out maybe 20 watts
tops, unless you redesign the alt to house 9 coils 18 magnets
like the Gull 40. That's a bit trickier to make.
#Post#: 105--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: ldissing Date: July 13, 2013, 10:02 am
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I went to Lowes to get some parts for the windmill. Wooden
dowels are hard to find that are perfectly straight and they
need to be straight. I did find 6 out of about 50 that were
close to being straight, but I opted to buy 1/4 inch round steel
instead. They are heavier than wooden dowels, so is this going
to be a problem with that much weight in the blades?
Leroy
#Post#: 107--------------------------------------------------
Suggestion
By: ldissing Date: July 14, 2013, 6:19 am
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In the plans you send out, it would be nice if you would place
lines vertically and horizontally every 1 or 2 inches so that it
is easier to get the pages lined up for the drawings that
require multiple pages.
Leroy
#Post#: 109--------------------------------------------------
Metal plate
By: ldissing Date: July 15, 2013, 1:11 pm
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Don't ya just hate the newbie questions?
For this question, you need to know that I'm planning on using
NIBs in the rotor.
So, why do you need the metal plate at all in the rotor. Most
places I've looked at say it needs to be approximately 1/2 the
height of the magnet, but why is it needed at all for ANY
design? I understand that the metal plate would cancel the
flux that would be generated by the topside of the magnets, but
other than that, is there any benefit? Can we do without it if
we have a way to hold the magnets in place?
Thanks,
Leroy
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