DIR Return Create A Forum - Home
---------------------------------------------------------
Lynx Wind Forum
HTML https://lynxwindforumhtml.createaforum.com
---------------------------------------------------------
*****************************************************
DIR Return to: Anything off topic
*****************************************************
#Post#: 2628--------------------------------------------------
Re: Material's
By: happygolucky Date: May 7, 2014, 7:02 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
@ lynx just so you guys know ..the industry standards are
changing for a lot of materials an just reasons.. the once
marine board... as we knew is being replaced with this a new
industry synthetic marine board standard...UV resistant an last
a life time..an is becoming as i said a standard now...
HTML http://www.sdplastics.com/marine_board.html
you may find some old stock laying around...for awhile! but then
expect this to replace it.. RV have it too..as this will be
the new standard unless you make your own. which i doubt..
my sources in 3 parts of the country say this is the new..an
better way to go..that's why i asked you Lynx about marine board
or ply? or synthetics? i thought you knew..?
what i found was treated lumber in many marine yards being
passed for the real MCcoy.... it is not.. its knotty pressure
treated ply for decks..i did finally find some real marine
grade.... it is very sparse.... i will be getting one of 5
sheets in southern Michigan....beware real wood marine board has
a reddish tint an sanded an has no voids an is a special water
resistance resin grade..laminated..material.
just so you know i'm still interested in these new materials as
i now there are many some very costly..check the prices as i
have done my homework you can always make
Micarta
Micarta is a brand name for composites of linen, canvas, paper,
fiberglass, carbon fiber or other fabric in a thermosetting
plastic. It was originally used in electrical and decorative
applications. Micarta was developed by George Westinghouse at
least as early as 1910 using phenolic resins invented by Leo
Baekeland. i have made this..good stuff it works an is easy an
economical..
....an I would like to have an open discussion on what happens
now...as this is the knew era of composites an synthetics...
#Post#: 2630--------------------------------------------------
Re: Material's
By: lynx wind Date: May 7, 2014, 7:50 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
Just so you know, I have tried many different exotic materials.
I am aware of the new marine board. I don't advise using marine
plywood. I prefer a good grade of flat plywood with three coats
of latex for its torsional strength and light weight for
strength. I have twisted 1/2" aluminum sheet like a pretzel at
high speeds whereas plywood wont twist. I have sheered 1/4"
steel bolts, I have had whole turbines break loose from bolts
holding them to the rotor and fly off and crash.
Where the rubber meets the road is actually building a wind
turbine and testing. In small scale some plastics work very
well. Until you get to larger sizes and the price and sagging
kill the design
I have witnessed carbon fiber and fiberglass seemingly explode
at high rpm.
I could go on and on.
I do read posts and listen to advice. i have a very inquisitive
and open mind. You will also notice I seldom criticize.
If money were no option I would seek an aluminum clad honeycomb
construction or some tough molded composite for rotor arms. If
sales volume were high it might make sense. Molds for these
parts are out of my reach, extrusions and blow molded parts
start at $15,000.
I am reading your posts and learning. I may not build the way
you suggest for economic reasons.
#Post#: 2631--------------------------------------------------
Re: Material's
By: happygolucky Date: May 7, 2014, 7:52 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
i understand what your saying not arguing..look at what an
aluminum truck is going to cost... i would pay the price
...that's me.. for one real board now that i will have to
replace i l know about would..when i can pay a one tine 3x the
cost now ....as it will come down with supply an demand... an
that's it to me it's an investment.. then i can interchange
accessories or rebuild etc..i will not buy a new car in Michigan
just for that reason..it will not last.. pay now or pay later
again you get what you pay for as the saying goes...look at what
comes from china...
i would an am thinking serous about building 2 an compare the
performance endurance long term study, what is your thoughts..
#Post#: 2632--------------------------------------------------
Re: Material's
By: happygolucky Date: May 7, 2014, 8:13 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
i have looked into honey comb also... i hear you and under stand
the stress an torque value i have researched the vawt hawt i
live near GE read the formulas an ratios an curves etc.. an have
a base... now threw you an previous source an studies....
in your first post you mentioned marine board? an i said what
about ply... i questioned it then?..an took it as stick to
marine board the plan ok so there are 2 different marine boards
i was, looking at one is $100 an the other is $300..?now you say
ply wood i'm confused?..i do read the very Beginning first page
of the 175 board number 1 post by you.. when it was the 200
renamed 175 did i miss something?.... you said ply be good for a
few years, so i started looking for real marine board ply.....
an could not find it anywhere ...it was fake.. so i mis
understood you..? right from the start ?as i know about many
different material.... i have a sources for honey comb..resin
material..no big deal.. i have a marine grade board tomorrow
real stuff no imperfections..for 65$ as i said last of 5 sheet
anywhere..that's real.. i was going to special order from a
source.. an then i said well i can get this..new grade an it is
better so they say..now you see where i come from..
#Post#: 2633--------------------------------------------------
Re: Material's
By: happygolucky Date: May 7, 2014, 8:35 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
i will expose a few of my source its open source...one of many
as i am a material IT specialist an designer,,i think things
threw too..an have spoken to many resources..i'm a researcher
with many sources..an love science... then we get into molecular
structured material...i would not use the tricel i have a
honeycomb.. sourse for space age hyper physics aluminum
thermoplastic..
HTML http://www.magnaplate.com/company/case_studies/space-age_enhancement_coat.shtml
HTML http://www.merrittsupply.com/products/28539-tricel-honeycomb-tripanel-heavy-duty-sheet.aspx
HTML http://www.professionalplastics.com/PlasticMaterialsbyProperties
#Post#: 2634--------------------------------------------------
Re: Material's
By: lynx wind Date: May 7, 2014, 8:44 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
Ooops, sorry if I said Marine Ply. In my mind I would never use
it for the reasons you all mention.
So, right now on record - I would say a good sanded 3/4" ply
that's flat will serve as a good test material for evaluating
the new SUT blades, a good DIY material and a good overall
material for the price that will last about two years before
needing service or replacement. Three coats of a gloss latex,
sanding between coats looks very nice and performs well.
But this would never pass for a commercial consumer product. I
understand that. But those aren't the customers I seem to reach
anyway. Most of my customers seem to be specifically interested
in a VAWT and want it for its silent operation and peacefulness.
Many are preppers and/or eco.
If I replace the Gull 160 it would be a complete machine with
all professionally built components, shiny and durable. The
Seagull 175 replaces the Seagull 75 DIY plans. Gull-
professional finished consumer product. Seagull - DIY parts
and instructions.
There is a big difference between a DIY kit and a Professionally
made consumer product. Does that make sense?
#Post#: 2635--------------------------------------------------
Re: Material's
By: happygolucky Date: May 7, 2014, 9:04 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
yes....so i will get 1# grade one regular ply doyou have a
number.....an i will skip the marine ab grade board as I had
searched so hard to find no biggie.... although it is tough to
turn loose.... an has weather grade performance an ply strength
too..just me talking....
i was just considering durability an weather..as i said i hate
the computer we should LAN party you can never tell emotion or
sense response in a conversation thought process etc.. an i do
like to communicate on a personnel level an be clear.... i
always get blamed for not explaining my self...i babel as wheels
turn.. most people do not understand me lynx..you understand i
hope...or even what i talk about its way over there head... with
some of my thoughts an process.... i just assume everyone is on
the same level..i'm not perfect..but some say i do not belong
here.. i often feel that way my self too but i have a purpose ..
#Post#: 2637--------------------------------------------------
Re: Material's
By: lynx wind Date: May 7, 2014, 9:18 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
Cool. But don't get furniture grade birch. It delaminates like
paper. Just a good old hardwood or fir plywood. If the machine
performs well for you the VAWT disassembles easily and you could
replace with an exotic material.
Testing is underway and we will know more in a few weeks about
the blades.
#Post#: 2640--------------------------------------------------
Re: Material's
By: sut Date: May 8, 2014, 8:01 am
---------------------------------------------------------
Just to add a little here the box that my aluminum comes in it
says right on the side (do not use pressure treated wood
behind this product) so stay with reg plywood
#Post#: 2642--------------------------------------------------
Re: Material's
By: happygolucky Date: May 8, 2014, 10:20 am
---------------------------------------------------------
thx.. an yes sir @sut
i know what you mean.....i have experienced that... with an old
shed out back.... that someone wrapped at bottom an patched
spots etc. 25 yr ago :'(.... ugly result , i have had to repair
all areas.. it caused wood rot an de-lamination... an it
oxidizes the finish on aluminum chemical reaction?
where the few thousands observation was by @sut... was it the
gap to gap from rotor arm sections meeting that comes
together,between rotor blade arm sections..to form
circumference for hub center? did you cut center with a drill
hole saw? @sut is that easier looks like it wood be once
atached to rotor plate.. ... where all 3 section come together
to form center hole attached to rotor... corner to corner ....
is still 12" on arm as you said @Lynx nothing changed..just a
few thousands its all the same dim.... as new dim was added on
print. 12"an 7". ..cause i was going to cut an pre-drill..this
weekend.. just scratching head an figuring where the few
thousandth is...
i noticed an observation too... when i made my poster board
from print out's of poster board pdf.. one had a reference
mark an other did not one lined up exactly with reference
marks.. i refer to a + reference mark top an bottom to realign
sheets..
the reason i ask probably means nothing...i noticed when i did
the poster board print, second time marks in corners top an
bottom of page like + mark symbol to line up each sheet was
missing marks.....an where missing marks it was slightly
off..... i had to guess at where mark an everything lined up
super imposed laid on top each other.. an filled in missing
lines no marks..... ??? so with + marks visible.. i could stick
a pin for exact location points as reference marks glued to
board...... just an observation on poster board printout... !
to me that was critical..to have the marks present or am i
mistaken,
should you cut right on lines ??? or leave a little meat/wood..
in trade an collage an experience , i was always taught an threw
experience, measure twice an cut once! so i cut to the right
side of line an sand to line a bevel radius..etc.. making line
visible......after cut an sand..to dimension..? many cut right
on line..! all these can add up to dimensional errors as they
stack up.......i know this is wood an not metal..but just a
question... for review an education of observations you
experienced gentlemen know what i'm talking about..
was going to start the layout this weekend..on 175..cut an
pre-drill next week ?. or should layout everything an let
latex take up any slack in holes an paint inside holes
everything an seal with latex. a good soaking of latex 3 coats..
before or after cut an layout? maybe to much thinking again
just an observation i noticed..when printing poster-board an
preparing to cut rotor arm .. thank you sut an lynx.
Hgl
*****************************************************
DIR Next Page