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#Post#: 91--------------------------------------------------
LJL 4.0 with Hi/Lo switch
By: lynx wind Date: May 22, 2013, 9:41 pm
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I enjoy refining these simple one transistor oscillators. It
has been a fun challenge to get full brightness with less power
than the grid. A lot of people ask what the big deal is. You
can buy 12 volt CFLs and 12 volt LED bulbs. The big deal is
that lighting these bulbs this way can use far less power than
any typical method. A lot of experimenters will conclude that
it has to do with the very high frequency fooling our eye into
thinking the bulb is fully lit, when it is actually lit a % of
the time.
This version 4.0 now is much more powerful, and has a low (Eco)
setting and also a fully bright setting. Centering the switch
turns the circuit off. I would love comments.
HTML http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1UYMlb1-mY8
HTML http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1UYMlb1-mY8
#Post#: 93--------------------------------------------------
Re: LJL 4.0 with Hi/Lo switch
By: rxpc Date: May 29, 2013, 10:00 am
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Hi Lynx,
I see this new version you made, and I think elsewhere you
mention using a tesla parallel winding. Are you referring to
the secondary winding like the way a lamp cord looks, where the
wires are side-by-side? And if so, are you still layering the
secondary?
Thanks for all your sharing, these are soem fun projects.
#Post#: 94--------------------------------------------------
Re: LJL 4.0 with Hi/Lo switch
By: lynx wind Date: May 29, 2013, 4:39 pm
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Tesla wound flat pancake coils with what he called "Parallel"
windings. Some now refer to this as bifilar. The problem is
there are several kinds of bifilar windings and there is
confusion. The coils I wind are solenoidal and so calling this
Tesla parallel is confusing. He inspired the idea so I wanted
to credit his work. He stated in the patent that this type of
winding can amplify the voltage in the coils. I notice a
distinct difference between this method and simply putting the
two layered secondary windings in series or simple parallel.
One end ties back to the next winding's start wire. The
performance with two coils wired this way is startling compared
to a simple coil.
#Post#: 95--------------------------------------------------
Re: LJL 4.0 with Hi/Lo switch
By: Catrinisin Date: June 3, 2013, 11:46 am
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Hi,
First I'd like to say that I really appreciate all that you guys
are doing.
I am interested in this LJL setup. Is there a schematic for the
circuit somewhere? The how-to videos are great but I didn't see
a schematic. I was going to just use the Labersaber schematic
but he has a couple different ones, and also one of your videos
shows three layers of secondary windings, so I'm confused about
that.
Finally, I saw a video for version 5. Is that the one I should
shoot for or go with this 4 version?
Thanks!
Chris
#Post#: 98--------------------------------------------------
Re: LJL 4.0 with Hi/Lo switch
By: rxpc Date: June 11, 2013, 9:59 pm
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I re-did an air coil I had that I knew would pull about 1amp to
light a 7.5watt led bulb using what I think is this tesla
parallel winding. I used 2 spools of 22 awg magnet wire for the
secondary winding both wires and wound 2 layers of about 480
turns. I used 71 turns of 14 gauge insulated wire for the
primary. Same 7.5watt bulb about the same brightness and pulling
around .750ma. I notice a flicker sometimes with the light, even
if I use less primary windings and more amps.
I was wondering if anyone was able to successfully use a bridge
rectifier with this setup? I found a 10 watt led chip I picked
up somewhere a while ago, I can't get a joule thief powerfull
enough to get some decent light out it. I made my own rectifier
with some 1n4007 diodes, but the output appears weak when
lighting leds.
#Post#: 99--------------------------------------------------
Re: LJL 4.0 with Hi/Lo switch
By: lynx wind Date: June 21, 2013, 8:19 pm
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Here is the current schematic I am using.
[attachment deleted by admin]
#Post#: 106--------------------------------------------------
Re: LJL 4.0 with Hi/Lo switch
By: Oldawgsrule Date: July 13, 2013, 2:13 pm
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LJL4.0
Are you still using the 3/4"pvc and sleeving over with the 1
1/2" pvc for primary?
I made my first one as an air coil over 1" pvc, kinda working
towards LS's SJR.
Unknowingly, made your LJL.. Well again, kinda..
The linking of the 2 secondaries is intriguing!
When winding the secondary would it be 'wrong' to wind the
first, then lay over the wire to begin the next wind?
Might not be as pretty with a line bump in the coil, but would
it cause a problem?
Like you have literally drawn..
I'm also assuming there's a 3rd wind for the low power mode..
Or are you walking away from that for some reason??
Not to forget to say...
Real happy to find you!
Like what you have here!
Like what I built so far.. Want to improve it!
#Post#: 127--------------------------------------------------
Re: LJL 4.0 with Hi/Lo switch
By: Oldawgsrule Date: July 22, 2013, 4:33 pm
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I've built the unit as your latest drawn.
I'm a 1/4" longer, have a third secondary spun on for Eco-Mode.
Using a 2n3055 as transistor.
Spun on a 1" pvc pipe.
Short of that, built as drawn.
What I'm seeing is that it likes 7-9v's
Anything over seems to be over-driving the LED's.
I'm up to 4 EcoSmart 6w LED's and see it will go even further!
Question is:
At 12v's plus, it's an over-drive.
Is this normal?
#Post#: 128--------------------------------------------------
Re: LJL 4.0 with Hi/Lo switch
By: lynx wind Date: July 23, 2013, 7:46 am
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A couple things.
First glad you found me and glad you are experimenting and
building.
These devices are actually very simple. The overdrive you are
seeing is probably happening because your primary/secondary
ratio is getting too high. However you wind the LJL you want to
have around 7 times the secondary turns as primary. If you use
one/two/or three layers of secondary they all add up.
My latest version has two layers and the layers are parallel
wound, meaning one's end ties back to the next layer's start. I
have @490 turns secondary and 70 turns primary.
If you reduce the secondary turns you will get dimmer bulbs. Or
if you increase the primary turns you will get dimmer bulbs,
because you are dropping the ratio.
When 12 volts is turned on and off rapidly it induces a current
in the secondary. If the ratio is 10:1 you will get roughly 120
volts in the secondary. However, you will also get brief higher
voltage flyback off the collector when the transistor shuts off.
It is because of that we can use a 7:1 ratio and still light
the bulb very well.
I use 1.25" PVC now because I am using heavier wire. The 1.5"
PVC used too much wire and cost was too high. But I have used
3" PVC and it worked very well. Some of my newer coils are on
4" forms. I have a suspicion that the very small diameter
solenoidal aircore's don't work as well. Maybe the field lines
are cleaner inside a larger diameter.
I don't sleeve anymore. I do use a layer of tape between
secondary coils to create a bit more capacitance.
For eco mode these PVC aircore's don't lend themselves to a
clean easy design. The reason is that tapping into the
secondary when power is on can cause the transistor to fry. It
will be running at 19k hz and then all of a sudden have to move
to 36k hz. Somehow in that moment things go wrong. Trying to
tap into the primary 2/3 down the coil doesn't look nice and
isn't as efficient.
What I find works best is in a 4-5" ring aircore to use a 9:1
ratio for high and a 6:1 ratio for low. I do this by using a
center off DPST switch. You move through off and switch the
primary turns. I am working on perfecting this little device.
Its actually much easier and uses less material.
#Post#: 238--------------------------------------------------
Re: LJL 4.0 with Hi/Lo switch
By: denmason Date: August 15, 2013, 11:08 pm
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Hello Folks, I'm making my first post. Last week I built my
first LJL using a 7:1 ratio that is dead on near perfect, took
my time winding and counting and counting again. Everything went
very well and it lit 4 EcoSmart 6w LED's on a 9volt battery.
Also works well using my DeWalt 14.4 batteries. So this morning
I though, HEY, why not try charging my cell phone.... no harm to
the phone but the charger cooked and I could hear the 2n3055
ringing with a high pitch. Question: What went wrong? ???
I have never made anything like this before and only have a
small bit of knowledge about this stuff, though I have watched
many videos and read what ever I find on the subject.
Any help will be greatly appreciated as I do plan on learning
all I can about alternative energy.
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