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       #Post#: 2878--------------------------------------------------
       Re: 175 Watt Seagull DIY Kit
       By: lynx wind Date: May 22, 2014, 7:48 am
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       For this experimenting you don't need to powder coat.  I have
       had years on disks that were painted with no trouble.  Disks
       that went into service in 2008 are still fine.  But if you
       really want to powder coat, drill the holes first.
       #Post#: 2881--------------------------------------------------
       Re: 175 Watt Seagull DIY Kit
       By: happygolucky Date: May 22, 2014, 9:23 am
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       thank you lynx ..powder coating is costly unless you do it in
       quantity.. i used to use red iron oxide paint... when i was a
       iron  worker..it is a flat primer coat paint for steel the make
       all kinds of good metal finish paint just need an good all
       weather..   product.
       #Post#: 2883--------------------------------------------------
       Re: 175 Watt Seagull DIY Kit
       By: happygolucky Date: May 22, 2014, 2:31 pm
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       @ lynx or anyone building the 175..when I was center punching
       hole pattern for 9" plate it say's for  1/4-20  threaded holes
       so i have to drill an tap hole for 1/4 -20 use #7 drill 13/64?
       or is for a 1/4 threw wood with 5/16 bushing sleeve tightening
       wood to tapped plate
       an drill  .50 diameter  center hole ....
       in rotor arm wood... it says 5/16 hole  are you inserting a 5/16
       OD ss sleeve bushing for 1/4 -20 ss bolt ...? sleeve gets
       pressed in into wood for shrinkage an strength.. i assume all
       hardware is stainless steel? i have two 175 rotor arms cut..all
       turned out pretty nice...!still have a half sheet ply left? i
       can use some for a panel control board..!
       #Post#: 2886--------------------------------------------------
       Re: 175 Watt Seagull DIY Kit
       By: lynx wind Date: May 22, 2014, 3:30 pm
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       Yes drill and tap 1/4-20.  Don't remember size drill, 3/16"
       might work fine.  Half inch center hole is not threaded, just a
       hole for the shoulder bolt.  If you want sleeves in the plywood
       you will need to source and design.  The 5/16" holes are
       oversize to allow for ease of mounting.  I worry a bit about the
       sleeve idea and have not commented.  If you tighten to the
       sleeve the wood may shrink and float.  I haven't had any
       problems with the fender washers on the plywood.  You will
       notice the plywood is slightly compressed after tightening.  I
       would recommend a lock washer on top of the fender washer.
       Maybe after a couple months you could check for any slop in the
       rotor to steel plate.  Mine have been through snow rain wind and
       sun.
       Remember this wood rotor design is not intended to be a shiny
       perfect consumer packaged product.  Its more for the DIYer.
       #Post#: 2888--------------------------------------------------
       Re: 175 Watt Seagull DIY Kit
       By: happygolucky Date: May 22, 2014, 3:37 pm
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       ok i was  ??? thinking before i drilled.. i'll  leave 5/16
       clearance..i just wasn't sure, i heard someone mention
       something.. its coming out nice any how i'm happy ;D
  HTML http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/us-tap-drill-size.aspx
       #Post#: 2890--------------------------------------------------
       Re: 175 Watt Seagull DIY Kit
       By: lynx wind Date: May 22, 2014, 3:44 pm
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       Get your plate finished.  But slow down.  I have the shoulder
       bolt and machined hub, magnets for you.  Spars, SUT blades.....
       Don't buy any more stuff.  I have magnet wire and just need to
       get the former done for winding.  I have been busy with board
       meetings, regional managers and an incredible load of
       correspondence now with LYNX Wind.  I can't keep up!  Ahhhhhh
       I love how you guys keep the thinking and the discussion going.
       #Post#: 2891--------------------------------------------------
       Re: 175 Watt Seagull DIY Kit
       By: happygolucky Date: May 22, 2014, 3:53 pm
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       no problem... i will finish up just that one plate made another
       set of rotor arms just for spare...an then wait no rush..do what
       ya gotta do.. nice cool windy day i have had 25 mph wind an gust
       to 30
       happy
       #Post#: 2900--------------------------------------------------
       Re: 175 Watt Seagull DIY Kit
       By: sut Date: May 23, 2014, 9:02 am
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       Hi everybody! @ hgl what I did with the 5/16 holes in the rotor
       was drilled 2 sizes smaller then opened up later to get to fit
       WISH I was home to report on condition and stats of diy 175 but
       weather here is fantastic ! NC.
       #Post#: 2903--------------------------------------------------
       Re: 175 Watt Seagull DIY Kit
       By: happygolucky Date: May 23, 2014, 10:40 am
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       thanks @sut for advice i understand ..  i will stick to plans
       for 175 diy following directions who me ???.... @ lynx says 5/16
       that's what i will drill ..your also right @lynx  about 3/16
       pre-drilled holes for tapping although the chart shows different
       ...from experience as i remember breaking a few taps, i do not
       want to take the chance of snapping off a tap in plate again :'(
       so i will use 3/16..) "my dad built a boat ounce in side the
       house an had to tear a wall out.. to get it out side.. he knew
       it would happen did not have the space  to build" i do nor want
       to  tear a wall out !
       so i cut my rotor arms in 3 sections yesterday...an will
       experiment later.. i am making a smaller one piece rotor arm..
       for just an experiment purpose..
       yes, again i am following directions who me...  ;D
       Happy
       #Post#: 2904--------------------------------------------------
       Re: 175 Watt Seagull DIY Kit
       By: sut Date: May 23, 2014, 11:19 am
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       One other thing I ran across while gluing  the spars together, I
       glued in the bolts first (6 of them) so when I went to glue in
       the spar joining rods which are 20" long (10" in each spar) they
       wanted to keep pushing out because of air pressure in spar. I
       think if you glued in the spar joining rods first then the
       bolts, I think you will have less air compression in spar and
       they May not push out as much . This was just a thought that may
       make it a little easier
       
       @ CG glad your getting that nasty weather because its 80 and
       sunny here LOL
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