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#Post#: 1954--------------------------------------------------
Re: LJL SC get hot an blows bulbs?
By: happygolucky Date: March 28, 2014, 3:44 pm
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my transistor an coil where warming to touch so i took it of
duty an opened an added a Ferrite immediate brightness on 2
bulbs an transistor cooled my coil was warm to touch not hot
base of bulb was warm not hot an transistor is cool
Ferrite is a definite plus ;D in my circuit it is actually
laying on coil..touch an reducing surounding RF an heat to
everything...yahoo ;D
#Post#: 1955--------------------------------------------------
Re: LJL SC get hot an blows bulbs?
By: happygolucky Date: March 28, 2014, 3:53 pm
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note: laying on coil produced a squeal... enclosed in plastic
case it quit... ???
#Post#: 1958--------------------------------------------------
Re: LJL SC get hot an blows bulbs?
By: sut Date: March 28, 2014, 5:34 pm
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I just made up a 70 turn 30 awg /11 turn 26 awg coil. amp draw
was .70 and kept rising to 1.1 so I added more turns to
primary (26 awg ) Green radio shack wire and got it down to .54
with 19 turns but transistor is still running warm ! so should I
take turns off of secondary
#Post#: 1959--------------------------------------------------
Re: LJL SC get hot an blows bulbs?
By: lynx wind Date: March 28, 2014, 5:49 pm
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Add primary a 1/4 turn at a time until you get the amp draw down
to .500 If you overdrive the bulb your transistor will run
warm. Once you get the amps to .5 on a 12 volt you will be at 6
watts. Then add another bulb and you will notice that it takes
very little extra current to light the second, third, fourth
bulb.
Basically you are tuning the coil for the type of bulb.
Then when you have this little device you will be able to
impress your wife next time the power goes out. Beats candles
and flashlights!
#Post#: 1961--------------------------------------------------
Re: LJL SC get hot an blows bulbs?
By: happygolucky Date: March 28, 2014, 6:13 pm
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thank you..lynx...got it..why is the Ferrite working so well?
it is cool to the touch an i have good lighting
if i add a extra turn bring the MA down to .500 can i eliminate
the Ferrite? and would you have to tune to every light the do
have different circuits...?
she is impressed she was when she married me...we been threw it
all..she is my soul mate... 35 years an strong...she is a god
women...lynx
#Post#: 1967--------------------------------------------------
Re: LJL SC get hot an blows bulbs?
By: lynx wind Date: March 28, 2014, 10:09 pm
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The 6.8:1 ratio came from a lot of experimenting. Its a good
starting point. You would think we want a 10:1 ratio to get 12
volts to 120 volts. But the output isn't a sine wave. Its a
very spikey and choppy DC that mimics AC. The spikes can be
quite high 200-400 v, but don't carry much current. The average
voltage to get these bulbs to light is probably closer to the
rms which is about 75-85 volts, which if you multiply 12 volts x
6.8 gives you about 80 volts.
No, you don't need to tune the coil repeatedly for every bulb.
It does seem like a good idea to pick a bulb you like, that
works, is a good price and then tune the coil. When you add
bulbs the average power usage does drop remarkably.
The ferrite captures the magnetic field and releases it when the
field collapses. It does this more efficiently than the aircore
coil. The only problem with ferrite is that if you overpower
the circuit it can saturate and not allow the oscillation to
reach higher frequency. But I don't think that is a big issue
with the frequency range these bulbs run at. The only other
drawback is the ferrite can make an annoying squeal, hence the
nickname "joule ringer". With careful design the squeal can be
almost eliminated.
#Post#: 1968--------------------------------------------------
Re: LJL SC get hot an blows bulbs?
By: happygolucky Date: March 28, 2014, 10:50 pm
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thanks,
i am starting to make sense out of this now... still have a
long way to go... are you a professor or teacher?..
can you eliminate the ferrite once perfectly tuned ...or is it
wise to use it when using more bulbs... 4 amp is peak or 6 amp
can't remember.. i have to look at transistor.. i do not think
you would want to run peak.... leave a margin for spikes..
i was amazed at the performance change it made in tuning good
lesson at .500 it could drop to .250 with the ferrite choke
#Post#: 1971--------------------------------------------------
Re: LJL SC get hot an blows bulbs?
By: happygolucky Date: March 29, 2014, 8:23 am
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.... i was reading an article an they said we where still using
old technology 50-60hz 120v AC that may have been for
incandescent lighting 120v
HTML http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Utility_frequency#Lighting
i was trying to figure how you could pull a low att led out of
120v 50-20 60Hz grid light house current.. an run back on dc
current in theory...
#Post#: 1972--------------------------------------------------
Re: LJL SC get hot an blows bulbs?
By: happygolucky Date: March 29, 2014, 8:27 am
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you are probably right... where an what kind of spool wire do
you use..
when you splice wire do you shellac or shield it with enamel?
#Post#: 1975--------------------------------------------------
Re: LJL SC get hot an blows bulbs?
By: sut Date: March 29, 2014, 9:16 am
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I don't know what they do but I just use a piece of electrical
tape, but I don't think you need that! all the other wire has
insulation on it but to be on safe side I tape it.
I tuned my ljlsc ( added about 30 inches ) and now have it
running at .42 amps the light still seems bright (eco smart 6
watt led ) when I first hook it up to the 12v battery its
running at .28 a but after 5 minutes and it gets just warm its
at .42a
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