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#Post#: 20--------------------------------------------------
Cleaning your revolver.
DIR By: allmanav
Date: August 26, 2017, 8:06 am
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When it comes to cleaning firearms, gun owners tend to fall into
one of two categories: the “I’ve never cleaned it and never
intend to” group and those who clean whether the gun needs it or
not. How often firearms should be cleaned depends on frequency
of use and what they’re used for, but that’s a discussion for
another time. The purpose here is to go over a few of the common
revolver designs on the market and how to field strip them for
maintenance.
Disassembling your revolver to this extent is not necessary on a
regular basis but is meant for repairs, parts upgrades and
annual in-depth cleaning. Armed with this knowledge—pun
intended—you’ll be able to clean and maintain your revolvers.
Supplies:
Manual and/or revolver assembly and maintenance guide (just
in case)
Gun mat or towel
Non-marring hammer (check out Brownells 1-inch Nylon/Brass
Hammer)
Magnetic-tipped gunsmith screwdriver set (try Brownells
Magna-Tip Screwdriver Set)
Allen key/hex wrench set, if applicable (try this Bondhus
Gorilla Wrench Set)
Rebound slide tool (S&W Rebound Slide Spring Tool)
Tweezers (try the Tweezer/Magnifier pack from Brownells)
Pin punch (try the Starrett Pin Punch Set)
Safety glasses (check out SSP Eyewear)
Gun CLP or lubricant
Kit with cleaning rod, jags or loops, patches and brushes
Rag or paper towels
Q-Tips (handy for small areas)
I'll illustrate the disassembly and cleaning procedures with a
Smith & Wesson Model 686, which is built on the company's
L-frame.
Step One:
As always, make sure your revolver is unloaded. Follow the four
golden rules of gun safety when checking: keeping your finger
off the trigger, aim the gun in a safe direction and open the
cylinder. Empty the cylinder, if need be. Also take the time to
ensure the barrel isn’t obstructed in any way.
Step Two:
Remove grip panels or sleeve. This step is one reason why it’s
important to use gunsmith-specific screwdrivers. When the
screwdriver bits do not precisely fit the screw, they can easily
slip and damage the gun. On the other end of the spectrum, if
they’re too large, the overhang could scrape at the edges,
causing damage. Oversize bits also will not fit if the screw is
recessed.
If a grip panels sticks after screws are completely loosened,
use the tip of your finger or a soft, non-marring tool to gently
nudge the panel loose. Prying at the edges of the panel with
metal implements might scratch or gouge the panel itself or the
frame beneath.
Step Three:
Remove side plate screws. Depending on its age and model, your
revolver may have three, four or five screws, the fifth of which
is located at the front of the trigger guard. Between 1905 and
1955, many revolvers were manufactured with five screws. The
uppermost side plate screw—the “bug screw"—was discontinued
around 1956 and after approximately 1961, the screw in front of
the trigger guard was also eliminated. Today, most Smith &
Wesson revolvers are made with three screws, although there are
some being produced with the “classic” five-screw design.
As you remove the screws, lay them on your mat in specific order
to ensure they are replaced in the correct location. Some screws
are different sizes and only fit in certain holes but with time
even screws that are supposedly the same size might fit more
precisely in the space they’ve occupied for so long. Hold the
gun securely while working with the screwdriver to avoid
slipping and scratching the revolver’s side plate.
When the side plate screws are removed, it’s time to remove the
side plate itself. Holding the grip in one hand, use your
non-marring hammer to tap the trigger guard and grip frame until
the side plate loosens (use the nylon end of the hammer). Once
it is loose, lift the side plate free and set it aside.
In the process of removing the screws and side plate, it is
possible to remove the cylinder. Open the cylinder and slide it
forward to remove it. Certain newer revolvers—typically DA
models such as the pictured Smith & Wesson 686—have a hammer
block. The hammer block is used as an internal safety mechanism
and can fall out once the side plate is removed. Lift the hammer
block free from the gun and set it aside with the other parts.
Do not disassemble the cylinder. There is rarely a need to do
so. You may clean the cylinder and related parts without
separating them from one another.
Step Four:
Remove strain screw from grip. After removing this screw, which
is found at the bottom of the grip, the main spring will also
come free. Set strain screw and main spring aside. In some
models and variants, the main spring assembly will include an
actual spring and require different removal methods. For those
cases, please refer to Ruger Super Redhawk summary below.
Step Five:
Remove the hand. This can be accomplished by levering the upper
end out of the frame and working the lower end up and out of the
trigger. In some models, the hand is removed as a part of the
trigger assembly rather than separately. In such cases, the hand
should stay within the trigger assembly, in part because its
pins are holding a spring in place within the assembly. Pulling
the hand free could result in the spring coming free and
launching itself across the room.
Step Six:
Remove the hammer. Do this by using your support hand to pull
the cylinder release back. Continue holding the cylinder release
back and pull the trigger. This allows you to lift the hammer
free from the revolver’s frame, a process that may require
carefully wiggling the hammer up over the hammer stud holding it
in place. On models like the pictured Smith & Wesson 686, the
main spring stirrup will be hooked onto the hammer but not
attached. In those cases, be sure you pay attention to the
direction in which the mainspring stirrup is mounted to the
hammer, since it can easily fall off during removal. Having done
so, slowly release the trigger.
Step Seven:
Remove rebound slide and internal spring. The rebound slide is a
small rectangular bar containing a spring located behind the
trigger and below and behind the hand. This part must be removed
with caution, not only because of its internal spring but
because it works in tandem with the trigger lever. Do not force
the rebound slide straight up or you might damage the lever.
Work slowly.
If you picture the hand and rebound slide as a backwards
upper-case “L,” the rebound slide would be the base. Cover the
open end of the rebound slide with the finger of one hand to
contain the spring within during removal and use the flat of a
standard screwdriver to carefully lift and remove it. When
setting it aside, leave the spring inside for safekeeping.
Be cautious when removing or replacing springs. I once had a
moment of mad ninja skills and snatched a spring from midair as
it attempted to escape but since those instances are rarer than
we all wish, take the time to ensure your springs stay where you
want them.
Step Eight:
Remove the trigger. Be aware there is a small spring in this
area that is quite difficult to replace if it is removed or
flies free. Be attentive and deliberate as you work.
Step Nine:
If your revolver is a 4 or 5-screw model your next step will be
to remove the fourth screw which is located on the face of the
trigger guard. The cylinder stop and spring are part of this
step, so proceed with caution. The spring is small and under
significant pressure.
If applicable, remove the fourth screw. Then, using either the
edge of a screwdriver or a punch, slowly push the edge of the
cylinder stop down through the opening in the frame so it can be
removed. It is helpful to use tweezers to assist in the removal
of the cylinder stop, but do not use pliers because it is too
easy to accidentally squeeze and damage the small part. Keep the
finger of one hand over the spring to stop it from coming loose
and flying off, never to be seen again. Set aside cylinder stop
and spring.
Reassembly Tips:
Cylinder stop: Use a prick punch or other slender tool to press
the spring into the frame to allow you to install the cylinder
stop.
Rebound slide: The task of replacing the rebound slide and
spring becomes much less daunting with a rebound slide tool,
which is slotted to allow for compression of the spring around
the rebound slide stud. A standard screwdriver can also be used.
Side plate: To replace the side plate, simply press it into
place with your hands. It won’t be completely flush with the
frame yet but when you put the screws in, it should finish the
process.
Cell phone: Remember, taking pictures as you go is an excellent
way to ensure you do not forget where something goes or what
direction it should be facing. (It also lets you know what
happened if you finish the job with mysteriously left-over
parts.)
Summary of field-stripping the Ruger Super Redhawk, a
large-frame magnum revolver:
1) The main spring assembly is removed by cocking the hammer and
placing an appropriately-sized disassembly pin or nail into the
hole at the base of the hammer strut. Controlling hammer with
thumb, slowly pull trigger and remove main spring assembly. Do
not remove the pin or nail from the strut.
2) Pull trigger and hold in rearward position to remove hammer
pivot from base of hammer and then lift hammer from frame before
carefully releasing trigger.
3) Use the rounded end of the strut from the main spring
assembly to press the trigger guard lock plunger. Plunger is
located within the gun’s frame at the top of the grip, behind
the trigger guard. Once plunger is depressed fully, lever
trigger guard assembly from frame. (If the strut is too
difficult to maneuver you can use a screwdriver, punch, or other
object to depress the plunger.)
5) Press cylinder release to swing cylinder assembly open and
remove entirely from frame.
If you count every revolver model and variant on the market,
your numbers will reach not into the dozens but into the
hundreds. If you have one of the countless Smith & Wesson L, J,
K, or N-frame revolvers, this guide will be a complete resource
for you. If you have another model entirely, no worries. Think
of this guide as a starting point, and go from here. Manuals and
properly executed revolver books are your friend. Go forth and
field strip, and learn to maintain and fire your revolvers from
the inside out.
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