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       #Post#: 165--------------------------------------------------
       Precision and accuracy shooting
   DIR By: allmanav
       Date: December 6, 2020, 9:47 am
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       Precision and accuracy shooting
       I’ve always said you can’t buy capability. Only practice can
       turn you into an accomplished precision shooter. However,
       neither can you practice your way to great skill without certain
       critical equipment.
       Whether you jump into the precision shooting scene with both
       feet and buy one of today’s excellent purpose-designed rifles or
       just want to stretch out your favorite deer rifle, you’ll need
       the right accessories. Let’s assume you’ve got the rifle or at
       least a foundation in the form of a potentially accurate
       barreled action. What do you really need to get the best out of
       it?
       Appropriate stocks for long-range precision include (from l.)
       hand-laid fiberglass composite, laminated wood and chassis-type.
       Stocks
       Whether you prefer wood, or composite or a machined metal
       chassis-type stock, it needs to be rigid to promote accuracy and
       stable to promote consistency. It must be impervious to whatever
       nature throws at it. This means laminated wood stocks, hand-laid
       composite stocks and well-executed machined-aluminum chassis.
       Wood is too susceptible to moisture, and common injection-molded
       plastic just isn’t rigid enough, and it becomes malleable when
       it’s hot and brittle when it’s cold.
       If you need a different stock, research the type you prefer and
       shell out the money. It’s worth it. Boyds Gunstocks offers
       usable laminated wood stocks, and McMillan offers some top-notch
       models. Stocky’s Stocks carries most of the good composite
       versions at good prices. And chassis stocks can be found at
       myriad online retailers.
       Opt for a model with a somewhat vertical grip, which makes for
       more comfortable, stable improvised field positions.
       Also, try to find a version with a lightweight adjustable cheek
       rest.Finally, be sure the fore-end is robust enough to accept
       your barrel profile. This latter particularly applies if your
       action has a heavy match tube or if you anticipate rebarreling
       it someday.LL TO CONTINUE WITH CONTENT
       Action Bedding
       Some experts hold that every rifle, even those with CNC-machined
       bedding blocks, will benefit from glass bedding. Other experts
       believe the opposite.
       Pick your side. I’m something of a bedding anarchist. If your
       action is mated to a premium, machined surface—either chassis or
       bedding block in a composite stock—by a top-shelf manufacturer,
       and if it shoots well, I’m satisfied.
       However, lots of today’s bedding blocks aren’t accurately
       machined, and lots of actions aren’t perfectly square, true and
       parallel. My 6.5-300 Wby. Mag. was one such gun. There was a
       discerniable bend in the action as the screws drew it into the
       skewed aluminum bedding block. Acraglas work performed by Roland
       Black—a bedding true-believer—literally halved the size of the
       groups that rifle produces.
       Plus, no matter what a manufacturer’s literature says, all—and I
       mean all—composite stocks need bedding. A good buddy once spent
       $600 on a prime McMillan but mistakenly believed he could just
       drop his fresh Krieger-barreled action in. Groups were dismal.
       We bedded it, and it became a half-m.o.a. rifle.
       Critical Scope Features
       Gone are the days of capped elevation turrets and mil-dot
       reticles. Over the past decade, Nightforce and Vortex
       spearheaded a feature revolution in the optics world. The
       innovations they made standard showed shooters a new world of
       capability and forced other optic companies to up their game.
       In addition to clear glass, maximum light transmission and
       minimum distortion, today’s savvy shooters want a certain set of
       features on their precision optics.First, the elevation turret
       must have durable, precision, repeatable guts. If it doesn’t
       dial predictably and last for thousands of repetitions, it
       doesn’t make the cut.
       The turret must be equipped with a zero-stop-type mechanism that
       enables the shooter to dial down to his or her base sight-in
       distance without looking or counting dial revolutions. And if
       the turret has a zero lock button preventing it from
       inadvertently being spun off zero, that’s icing on the cake.
       Lean toward turrets with easy-to-calculate rotation quantities,
       such as 20 m.o.a. or 10 mils per rotation. Second-rotation
       numbers on the dial are really nice, too.
       If you’re trying to wring out precision from a hunting rifle,
       company-offered custom-engraved dials regulated to match your
       favorite load in yards are particularly advantageous.
       A really important second feature is adjustable parallax.
       Precision shooting dictates the necessity of eliminating
       parallax, which is an optical anomaly that causes all kinds of
       grief if not eliminated. In the old days this feature was found
       on the front lens housing, but now the more ergonomic side focus
       turret is much more common.
       If you want to shoot far, adequate internal adjustment is
       necessary. Typically, this requires the use of a 30mm main tube
       or even larger. Be aware that although the massive 34mm and 35mm
       tubes provide outstanding image quality and tons of adjustment,
       they are heavy, and rings are expensive and hard to find.
       Bases & Rings
       Scope rings are not all created equal. Neither are bases. For a
       precision rifle, install a one-piece cross-slot 1913-spec base.
       The one-piece design is not only more rigid but also squares up
       the two rings to one another. Apply thread lock and torque the
       screws to appropriate spec.
       Purchase quality rings. They’re expensive, so plan to spend
       upward of $100. It’s worth it. Precision machined rings from
       Seekins, Nightforce, Leupold, Warne, Steiner, Hawkins and others
       typically offer perfectly round, true bearing surfaces. Cheaper
       rings need to be lapped to prevent scope body damage and
       consistency-robbing distortion when the screws are tightened.
       A common tendency is to mount scopes in rings that are higher
       than they need to be. This exacerbates the struggle to attain a
       good cheek weld. Choose rings that position the scope as close
       to the barrel and action as possible¬—without actually touching.
       Try them first to be sure. Seekins makes arguably the best
       low-mount rings.
       Torque scope ring screws only to manufacturer’s spec. Cranking
       them tighter will potentially compress the scope tube and
       compromise the mechanics of the erector housing and
       magnification adjustments.
       
       Cant can be an accuracy killer at longer ranges. A spirit level
       like this one from Burris will ensure you’re holding your rifle
       true.
       Scope Accessories
       Canting a rifle isn’t a big deal inside 200 or even 300 yards.
       Past that, it can be a real headache, so get a scope level
       bubble.
       A couple of years ago an old hunting mentor of mine lay behind a
       superbly accurate rifle and aimed at one of the biggest Wyoming
       mule deer he’d seen in a half-century of hunting big bucks. It
       stood 430 yards away, on a steep ridge that fell sharply off to
       the one side.
       The buck also stood at a steep angle, his hindquarters
       dramatically lower than his shoulders. With one or two steps,
       the buck could vanish into heavy brush.
       My friend dialed up his Nightforce scope, got steady and sent
       his bullet. Unfortunately, it was a whisker right—just enough to
       miss over the giant deer’s back. He later figured out he’d
       canted his rifle strongly due to the angle of the ridge.
       My favorite economy-priced scope level is made by Burris and
       costs about $35. Mount it on the main tube just behind the front
       objective bell so you can see it with your non-shooting eye when
       in firing position. Calibrate it to the flat top of your scope
       turret.
       Several competing models are available, too. Look for the offset
       versions; otherwise you have to lift your head from the stock
       and take your eye from the scope to see the level.
       For a high-end product, serious shooters trend toward Accuracy
       1st’s version, which costs a cool $100 but offers more precision
       and is less likely to get sluggish in very cold conditions.
       Another premium, innovative level is Warne’s $100 collapsible
       Skyline model.
       Cheek Rests
       Few modern scopes can be mounted low enough to allow a good
       cheek weld. This is especially so with precision scopes because
       of their large lens diameters and large main tubes, as well as
       the robust, cross-bolt type bases and rings precision shooters
       favor for their strength.
       Stock makers have compensated as much as possible by designing
       high combs. However, there’s a limit, because the rifle’s bolt
       has to be able to clear the top of the comb when removed for
       maintenance.
       A good cheek weld is critical. A while back, a good friend
       struggled with a fine new custom rifle. He was frustrated
       because he couldn’t get the gun to group better than 1.5 inches
       at 100 yards.
       I cut some cardboard, rolled out the packing tape, and stacked
       shims atop his comb until he could lie prone with his neck
       completely relaxed, eye centered in the scope. His five-shot
       groups instantly shrunk to 0.75 inch.
       For a price, shooters can order a precision stock with an
       adjustable cheek rest. That price comes in two forms—dollars and
       pounds—although recent cutting-edge versions from McMillan and
       Manners have shaved those pounds to ounces.
       If you’re getting a new stock, and if you don’t plan to climb
       big mountains with your rifle, by all means get an adjustable
       cheek rest. If not, order an AccuPack strap-on by Spec-Ops
       Brand. Unlike most strap-ons, which add just a quarter inch of
       height and are basically useless, the AccuPack comes with
       closed-cell-foam shims and is adjustable for height. Weight is
       just four ounces. I use them on all my mountain rifles.
       Bipods
       Properly used, a bipod provides benchrest levels of accuracy.
       Modern technique consists of lying straight behind the
       bipod—rather than at an angle as many competitive shooters
       learned. This directs recoil straight back through the body,
       which minimizes muzzle jump and particularly sideways muzzle
       jump.
       Additionally, the bipod is typically “loaded,” meaning the
       shooter puts forward pressure against it by scooting the body
       forward. You not only get increased stability with this method,
       loading your bipod provides superb recoil control as well.
       Use the non-shooting fist beneath the toe of the stock to
       provide rear support or, even better, a bunny-ear sandbag or
       lightweight field bag. The instructors at the SAAM School at FTW
       Ranch recommend a padded shooting mitt for the non-shooting
       fist.
       More Harris bipods are in use around the world than any other,
       and provide a great benchmark. They’re of high quality, attach
       to the forward sling stud, work beautifully and cost little more
       than $100. However, they’re also heavy, noisy, prone to snag in
       dense brush, and don’t have great amounts of adjustability.
       Bipods that up the game and triple the price typically offer
       more adjustment, particularly in forward and rearward leg
       positions. Sometimes they’re lighter, too. Various
       interchangeable feet are available. Atlas, Warne, Modular
       Evolutions and Spartan Precision offer great options.
       Timney and other manufacturers make great aftermarket triggers
       that can really improve your shooting.
       Triggers
       To get the best out of a super-accurate rifle, you’ve got to
       have a crisp, light trigger, ideally without discernable
       overtravel, which is rearward movement that occurs after the
       trigger releases the sear.
       Heavy, gritty, inconsistent triggers interfere with clean shot
       execution. No matter how perfect your position, sight picture,
       and technique, practical shots from field positions unavoidably
       suffer from a poor trigger.
       Thankfully, excellent aftermarket triggers are available for
       most rifle models. Cost runs from about $125 up to $250.
       Jewell, Trigger Tech and Geissele are great manufacturers.
       Timney has a broad selection, including triggers for models
       infrequently pressed into service for precision work.
       Many options are engineered for a specific task. Beware of
       accidentally ordering a two-ounce benchrest competition trigger.
       My favorites are adjustable to a crisp two pounds, which is
       heavy enough to prevent negligent discharges and light enough
       for really precise field work.
       Whether you’re interested in getting into long-range rifle
       competition such as Precision Rifle Series or want to get a
       hunting rifle ready to handle any precision task, paying
       attention to these features will go a long way toward achieving
       your goals.
       It’s not that difficult. Just think stock, bedding, optics and
       optics accessories, cheek rest, trigger and bipod, and you’re on
       your way.
       Benedikt
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