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#Post#: 6619--------------------------------------------------
Re: old number one
By: Adrian Date: May 3, 2022, 11:26 am
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I have attached a little document which illustrates the reason
for my concern with the steering on No One and hopefully a
solution for you. It's just to offer help to a new and obviously
very enthusiast new member.
:>)
#Post#: 6624--------------------------------------------------
Re: old number one
By: guest274 Date: May 3, 2022, 1:26 pm
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[quote author=Adrian link=topic=752.msg6619#msg6619
date=1651595197]
I have attached a little document which illustrates the reason
for my concern with the steering on No One and hopefully a
solution for you. It's just to offer help to a new and obviously
very enthusiast new member.
:>)
[/quote]
First of all let me thank you for taking the time to put
together the document. I can see your point about the length and
consequent fragility of the long bolt. The bolts are bent
because I bent them to prevent them hitting the chassis when
turning due to the KPI The idea of bending the arm to put the
track rod below the chassis is good in theory, but as you can
see from the photo's, it would mean some serious alteration
which I would rather not do. If the king pin inclination was
zero then I think it would be possible to swap the brackets
round to the opposite side and so put the arm at the bottom
which would help. However, that isn't the case. Going below the
chassis is the best bet, but I still need to add an extension on
to the arm to lower the connecting point. I can also alter the
steering column fairly easily. At least I can't get bored.
#Post#: 6677--------------------------------------------------
Re: old number one
By: guest274 Date: May 5, 2022, 9:46 am
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Having been advised by Adrian to redesign my steering, I have
done just that. Instead of the track rods going over the
chassis, they now go under. I welded a short length of 1" box to
the underside of the steering arm to lower the connection point
for the track rod ends. The long bolt that was connecting
steering arm and track rod end has gone. I also lengthened the
steering column so that the Ackerman was below the chassis.
After a great deal of thinking about it, it's been a fairly
straight forward job.
#Post#: 6854--------------------------------------------------
Re: old number one
By: guest274 Date: May 16, 2022, 1:17 pm
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I've been struggling with how to make the curved bits of the
bodywork and have tried using cedar strips, steaming ply and
have considered aluminium but I have no experience bending and
shaping it. However I have tried something that some people will
consider unusual for want of a better word. I happened to see a
video on Youtube about shaping and forming EVA foam to make
props for film and role playing. I have some floor mats which
are EVA, so I thought....why not give it a go.
The attached photo's show my first attempt and I have to admit
that it has worked. As you can tell the piece is not quite big
enough but good enough for a try. I fastened the piece to the
frame with clamps and warmed it up with a heat gun. so it might
shape itself to the frame. Then I gave it three coats of PVA and
one coat of paint. I left it for a few hours and then removed
the clamps hoping it would maintain it's shape which it did. The
next step is to get some bigger bits of EVA and add some resin
which I didn't have. It makes the foam rigid. The video to
watch is by James Bruton. There are also videos on shaping the
foam. I think I have found how to make the bullnose radiator.
#Post#: 6858--------------------------------------------------
Re: old number one
By: TheGiantTribble Date: May 17, 2022, 3:59 am
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Well that works rather well.
Excellent idea, I wonder how tight a radius it would form?
#Post#: 6859--------------------------------------------------
Re: old number one
By: kon8000 Date: May 17, 2022, 4:10 am
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That EVA foam looks like a great idea. I was toying with using
ply strips for the structure, and lycra to bridge the gaps, to
support fiberglass as it sets (a bit like the wheel arch
extensions from Project Binky). I was worried it would turn out
very ridge-y, and end up looking like an old-school canvas
canoe. Thin sheets of EVA looks like a much more forgiving
option.
[quote author=TheGiantTribble link=topic=752.msg6858#msg6858
date=1652777966]
Well that works rather well.
Excellent idea, I wonder how tight a radius it would form?
[/quote]
You can get the foam in all sorts of shapes and sizes... rounded
edge, triangle, tubes, balls... so looks like you can epoxy it
into pretty much any radius you like, depending on how thick a
sheet you get.
I've had a quick look around and it seems some people have
problems with the epoxy not setting when applied as just a thin
layer over the foam, but it looks like they may have spread the
epoxy too thinly (without any glass in), and the foam doesnt
appear to absorb the epoxy, so there's just not enough depth to
cure properly. I'm not sure if this means it's going to be a
better option to cover the foam in packing tape (so the epoxy
doesnt stick at all) and just use it kinda like a buck, which
will peel off from the inside, giving you a nice rigid 'glass
shape that can be bonded in place and reinforced on the
inside... or do it without the tape and leave the foam in place
to act as a vibration dampener too. I think maybe it depends if
it soaks up water or not... wouldn't want to create a wicking
layer which never dries out.
#Post#: 6860--------------------------------------------------
Re: old number one
By: guest274 Date: May 17, 2022, 4:51 am
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The process that I have watched on Youtube and that which I have
used is to heat with a heat gun to get the shape required, or
fix the foam in place and then heat it so it fits perfectly.
Seal the foam with three coats of PVA, then apply resin and
finally paint.
It is possible to get a tight radius. The radiator on mine is 6
inches but there would be no problem going down to 2 or three
inches.
#Post#: 6861--------------------------------------------------
Re: old number one
By: kon8000 Date: May 17, 2022, 5:15 am
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[quote author=Morrisgarage link=topic=752.msg6860#msg6860
date=1652781071]
Seal the foam with three coats of PVA, then apply resin and
finally paint.
[/quote]
I thought PVA was used as a release agent/layer when working
with resin, because the resin doesnt stick to it. Would be ok to
do when making props or costumes, but not sure how well that
would stand up to the vibrations we'd be putting through it?
#Post#: 6862--------------------------------------------------
Re: old number one
By: guest274 Date: May 17, 2022, 6:52 am
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PVA is a glue and sealer. Wood glue is PVA. Watch the Youtube
video by James Bruton to see what he does. I have only just
started working with foam and PVA, but I don't see resin falling
off a piece of foam sealed with PVA. If it did the props people
wouldn't use it.
#Post#: 6863--------------------------------------------------
Re: old number one
By: kon8000 Date: May 17, 2022, 9:02 am
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Ah, my bad, I'm getting my acronyms mixed up:
[quote]
PVA (white glue) is polyvinyl acetate. PVA mold release is
polyvinyl alcohol. They are not the same thing.
[/quote]
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