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#Post#: 3233--------------------------------------------------
Re: Riley Special chassis
By: synthpunk Date: November 24, 2020, 1:21 pm
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Amplifier flight case strap/ bonnet strap fixing thingie
#Post#: 3234--------------------------------------------------
Re: Riley Special chassis
By: synthpunk Date: November 24, 2020, 1:32 pm
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[quote author=Marek.Z.N link=topic=413.msg3231#msg3231
date=1606243314]
That is an impressive weight so far! you should have a light
(and therefore fast out of the corners) cyclekart! im really
enjoying seeing how you are doing this as its very different
[/quote]
Cheers!
I do like to dive right in. Im keeping this journal updated with
my thoughts and ramblings as well as actual solid progress
reports, i think itll make for a more interesting read if theres
some blind alleys and two steps back moments as well...
I race model steamboats and hydroplanes when i get the chance to
head up to london in the summer, in Victoria Park. Im fairly
well known in the club for making some fairly idiosyncratic but
good looking boats that have never actually finished a race.
They either sink or catch fire or both. Im tryin particularly
hard not to let that happen with Little Car... ;c)
#Post#: 3235--------------------------------------------------
Re: Riley Special chassis
By: chrisenamels Date: November 25, 2020, 5:19 am
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You can get the benefits of removable bodywork by just making
the top of the bonnet and tail removable. It needs some bracing
laid horizontally below bonnet top level behind the nose, and in
front of the scuttle. The other bracing needed would be from the
rear of the tub to the end of the "chassis", that could be done
by a diagonal cut in the tail section body. Stefan did post a
stress analysis for a box body somewhere on the forum, that
would give you an idea of where extra stiffness is needed.
#Post#: 3244--------------------------------------------------
Re: Riley Special chassis
By: synthpunk Date: November 27, 2020, 1:13 pm
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Yeah, I think I’ve seen that stress analysis briefly, when I was
reading all the posts when I first joined. I’ll take a closer
look!
I’ve been working on the internal support structure for the
torsion boxes on the outside of the rails, I’ve decided to make
the lattice out of blocks of balsa. They’re just there to
provide some glue surface to stick the ply to, all the strength
is in the ply skins. Easy to work with as well, although the
sawdust is a bit grim. Doors are commonly made as plywood
torsion box structures, with an inner core of cardboard
honeycomb, so the balsa will be more than adequate.
#Post#: 3254--------------------------------------------------
Re: Riley Special chassis
By: synthpunk Date: December 1, 2020, 1:38 pm
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Evening all!
A fair amount of progress has been made over the weekend. Ive
finished the boxing and skinning for the right hand side, and
then copied the relevant cuts to the left and started
fabricating a set of mirror image parts for that side. The
chassis as a whole has moved to the sprayshop at work, where it
is warmer and drier than my shed, ready for glueing and
epoxy/glass coating at some point in the next fortnight.
Ive been recommended to use Bucks Composites products
HTML https://www.bucks-composites.com/
by one of the chaps i work
with who does lots of aero modelling.
Im going to order some 200g/m2 cloth and Bucks GB epoxy resin,
and some tape for reinforcing corners.
The right hand side now weighs 5.8 kilos, complete with a new
torsion box extension down towards the very rear to keep the
engine mounts from twisting. Im very pleased with the final form
its all taken, although i neglected to take any pictures so ill
have to post some later.
Ive also solved my welding problem- i made friends with the
owner of a local engineering firm who makes parts for cyclotrons
and other high energy physics experiments... so truly world
class welding. Hes also car mad, and so is goin to do the
welding for some suspension bits for me in return for my
rewiring his guitar. Bargain! ;c)
Cheers!
Rich
#Post#: 3262--------------------------------------------------
Re: Riley Special chassis
By: synthpunk Date: December 2, 2020, 12:38 pm
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Complete and incomplete rails, left and right:
#Post#: 3265--------------------------------------------------
Re: Riley Special chassis
By: M.Z.Nahajski Date: December 2, 2020, 2:37 pm
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very impressive. cant wait to see them in person someday day on
a kart
#Post#: 3266--------------------------------------------------
Re: Riley Special chassis
By: synthpunk Date: December 3, 2020, 8:44 am
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Me neither ;c)
I started the glueing process today- in work an hour early and
an hour for lunch has seen the seat structure dismantled, all
the parts sanded to final size on the big belt sander (thanks
employer!) and glued and screwed back in place.
I’m still in two minds about filling the void spaces with
expanding foam. Plus side- cheap, and will make everything even
more rigid. Minus side- messy, and if water does get in it’ll
suck it all up and then go rotten, so I’d have to be extra
careful to ensure everything is *really* well sealed and
watertight.
Hmmmmm...
I’m gonna order a front axle and bits from Gemini karts this
week, I’ve got some questions about pit bike Wheels and
associated stub axle diameters and lengths, I’ll start a thread
in the tech forum on the assumption that someone else might need
to find the information as well, rather than bury it in all my
wittering on in this thread..
#Post#: 3267--------------------------------------------------
Re: Riley Special chassis
By: synthpunk Date: December 3, 2020, 3:11 pm
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Further wittering on- ive ordered a roll of 25mm wide, 450kg
nylon webbing in a nice checkered/herringbone pattern for
weaving the seat with. I ordered 50metres for a tenner, which
initially seems alot until you sit down and work it out- if the
seat is 18x18 inches roughly, then it will need 16 horizontal
and 16 vertical weaves, front and back, (which makes each one
twice as long as the seat dimensions), plus 3 inches for the
radius, so it quickly adds up to a yard and a bit (1metre) a
weave, and you need 32 of them. And a staplegun.
Making shaker style woven seats is fun (because making furniture
is always fun), and pretty easy as long as you remember to make
all the angles add up to 360. As the seat is angled in or out at
the edges, (Dependin on weather its a front or back corner) the
angles for the stretcher and runner rail mounting holes must be
drilled at exactly the right angle into the corner pieces so
everything adds up properly. Some angles are acute, some arent,
and nothin is exactly 90 degrees, so having access to a pillar
drill helps.
The front and back seat rails (stretchers) are 1inch diameter
hardwood, and the side to side rails (runners) are inch and a
quarter.
This bit of wittering on is definitely going to need a picture.
I can tell...
#Post#: 3270--------------------------------------------------
Re: Riley Special chassis
By: Adrian Date: December 4, 2020, 4:08 am
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I've been following your build and would just like to say how
much I am enjoying it. You are really inspirational, inventive
and I love your inspiration car and your design.
I am a modelmaker myself and was at one time big into lifeboat
models (Speedline Models) so I may well have seen you at some
show or other. In any case we will no doubt be meeting soon
since we are now on the road to social recovery. I think we have
a couple of interesting new venues in the offing.
I was going to ask you about the springs you are using. I looked
on the web for jumping springs and must say they look to be a
very good choice because they should give you fast-reacting,
softish suspension which is what is needed to help with the
battle against the dreaded understeer. Any idea where you can
get the carbon fibre spring parts from?
Keep up the good work and hurry up! I can't wait to see this
build.[emoji1360]
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