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#Post#: 14135--------------------------------------------------
Peerless differential - through chassis fixing
By: SteveP Date: December 7, 2025, 10:54 am
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I’ve looked at various You Tube builds (mainly American) and
they show cut outs in the top of the chassis to allowing
placement/removal of the complete differential and axle from
above. See photo
It occurs to me that it would be easier to place and remove the
axle from below. I can’t see that it would be any stronger or
weaker either way………but am I missing something?
#Post#: 14137--------------------------------------------------
Re: Peerless differential - through chassis fixing
By: Granville Date: December 7, 2025, 11:42 am
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I used 25mm bearing pillow blocks on my Peerless 100 ( had the
shafts machined down to 25mm and keyways cut fill length first)
bolted through the chassis so its just a case of unbolting and
lifting off if need be. I never liked the idea of cutting away
most of the chassis rail then relying on the bearing housing for
strength so went this way about it.
#Post#: 14138--------------------------------------------------
Re: Peerless differential - through chassis fixing
By: Jimr1999 Date: December 7, 2025, 11:54 am
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I pretty much did the same as Granville, no issues to date
JimR
#Post#: 14139--------------------------------------------------
Re: Peerless differential - through chassis fixing
By: NewbieNick Date: December 7, 2025, 12:29 pm
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Hi Steve .I did the same as Granville & Jim. Pictures on page 2
Marmon wasp build journal.
#Post#: 14141--------------------------------------------------
Re: Peerless differential - through chassis fixing
By: RhysN Date: December 7, 2025, 11:54 pm
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These parts can be welded on, on the Napier I have extended
them.
HTML https://www.okeparts.com/collections/axle-parts/products/drift-trike-go-kart-oke-30mm-rear-axle-bearing-hanger-kit,<br
/>they do have them in different axle size sets.
#Post#: 14142--------------------------------------------------
Re: Peerless differential - through chassis fixing
By: SteveP Date: December 8, 2025, 4:44 am
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Thanks Gents - clear.
I guess the Americans want their chassis rails higher for some
reason?
#Post#: 14149--------------------------------------------------
Re: Peerless differential - through chassis fixing
By: RhysN Date: December 9, 2025, 4:10 am
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Hi Steve. having been around these things for a long time I can
say that the focus has changed. Way back when, folks were
attracted by the simplicity, over the years they have become
more complex (heavier) and have gained a different aspect. The
original Stevenson had one wheel drive, as do the majority of
the ones I have driven both in the US and NZ for example. Those
original were through the frame tube, it wore out a hole saw
achieving that.
Where the rear axle goes, either through the frame, over or
under is usually dictated by the front axle curvature and spring
set so that the chassis rail is more or less level. Some cars
are built low, some not so and in the case of my Napier for
example, it's following 2 things. 1, what does the inspiration
car look like, and 2 I am using the US guidelines which mandate
the seat height above the axle. As a result it's high.
It's entirely your call. For me, my first car was through the
rail, subsequently they have varied.
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