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       #Post#: 14135--------------------------------------------------
       Peerless differential - through chassis fixing
       By: SteveP Date: December 7, 2025, 10:54 am
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       I’ve looked at various You Tube builds (mainly American) and
       they show cut outs in the top of the chassis to allowing
       placement/removal of the complete differential and axle from
       above. See photo
       It occurs to me that it would be easier to place and remove the
       axle from below. I can’t see that it would be any stronger or
       weaker either way………but am I missing something?
       #Post#: 14137--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Peerless differential - through chassis fixing
       By: Granville Date: December 7, 2025, 11:42 am
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       I used 25mm bearing pillow blocks on my Peerless 100 ( had the
       shafts machined down to 25mm and keyways cut fill length first)
       bolted through the chassis so its just a case of unbolting and
       lifting off if need be. I never liked the idea of cutting away
       most of the chassis rail then relying on the bearing housing for
       strength so went this way about it.
       #Post#: 14138--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Peerless differential - through chassis fixing
       By: Jimr1999 Date: December 7, 2025, 11:54 am
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       I pretty much did the same as Granville, no issues to date
       JimR
       #Post#: 14139--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Peerless differential - through chassis fixing
       By: NewbieNick Date: December 7, 2025, 12:29 pm
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       Hi Steve .I did the same as Granville & Jim. Pictures on page 2
       Marmon wasp build journal.
       #Post#: 14141--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Peerless differential - through chassis fixing
       By: RhysN Date: December 7, 2025, 11:54 pm
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       These parts can be welded on, on the Napier I have extended
       them.
  HTML https://www.okeparts.com/collections/axle-parts/products/drift-trike-go-kart-oke-30mm-rear-axle-bearing-hanger-kit,<br
       />they do have them in different axle size sets.
       #Post#: 14142--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Peerless differential - through chassis fixing
       By: SteveP Date: December 8, 2025, 4:44 am
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       Thanks Gents - clear.
       I guess the Americans want their chassis rails higher for some
       reason?
       #Post#: 14149--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Peerless differential - through chassis fixing
       By: RhysN Date: December 9, 2025, 4:10 am
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       Hi Steve. having been around these things for a long time I can
       say that the focus has changed. Way back when, folks were
       attracted by the simplicity, over the years they have become
       more complex (heavier) and have gained a different aspect. The
       original Stevenson had one wheel drive, as do the majority of
       the ones I have driven both in the US and NZ for example. Those
       original were through the frame tube, it wore out a hole saw
       achieving that.
       Where the rear axle goes, either through the frame, over or
       under is usually dictated by the front axle curvature and spring
       set so that the chassis rail is more or less level. Some cars
       are built low, some not so and in the case of my Napier for
       example, it's following 2 things. 1, what does the inspiration
       car look like, and 2 I am using the US guidelines which mandate
       the seat height above the axle. As a result it's high.
       It's entirely your call. For me, my first car was through the
       rail, subsequently they have varied.
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