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       #Post#: 1050--------------------------------------------------
       Brakes
   DIR By: Slack Alice
       Date: July 14, 2019, 4:39 pm
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       I need to seriously upgrade my braking system. It will have to
       be hydraulic...any good recommendations?
       #Post#: 1051--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Brakes
   DIR By: RhysN
       Date: July 15, 2019, 1:58 am
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       Why does it have to be hydraulic? That's only the actuating
       system.
       Anyway, the biggest issue is that the master and slave cylinders
       come from the same unit. There are plenty of motorcycle rear
       hydraulics.
       A disc with the ability to shed heat, so size, thickness etc
       that's compatible with the caliper, big and thick as you can.
       The mountain bike one you had/have was going to be a parking
       brake, or back up had I used one.
       BTW David I was with Thunderbug yesterday, definitely yellow and
       black (not dark blue as we discussed)
       #Post#: 1052--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Brakes
   DIR By: Slack Alice
       Date: July 15, 2019, 3:10 am
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       I’m really envious! Thunderbug in the flesh!
       #Post#: 1053--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Brakes
   DIR By: RhysN
       Date: July 15, 2019, 3:43 am
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       It was like being a kid in a candy store. I only watched about 3
       cars go up the hill.
       Laugh of the day (and OT) was the commentator who said that the
       White "must have a badly blown head gasket" It's a steam car and
       the exhaust...
       Back to brakes. The Freikaiserwagen, had one cable operated drum
       brake, always had, always will do. (That's another one to look
       up :) )
       #Post#: 1054--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Brakes
   DIR By: chrisenamels
       Date: July 15, 2019, 6:07 am
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       I'll second your "kid in a candy store" comment Rhys, Saturday
       was mind boggling. Photos of Thunderbug, and the rear end of
       Freikaiserwagen attached.
       #Post#: 1601--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Brakes
   DIR By: StefanN
       Date: November 6, 2019, 12:18 pm
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       It would be helpful to get a feel for what brake set-ups people
       are using.  With this being such a critical component the more
       understanding we can get of what works the better.  Please could
       you share the following any information you know about your:
       Master cylinder/piston (bore/stroke)
       Calliper (make, number of pots, bore)
       Pads
       Disc diameter, thickness, design
       (slotted/drilled/dimpled/vented), material and carrier
       Number of discs
       Any ventilation to the discs
       Plus any comments on performance.
       What it was designed for
       Photos and links to anything you've bought would also be
       helpful.
       #Post#: 1605--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Brakes
   DIR By: GeoffM
       Date: November 6, 2019, 4:36 pm
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       Check out 20180201151146 on youtube it may help, although I have
       changed the front brakes to hydraulic as the cables would pull
       when turning. I used motorcycle clutch slave cylinders to
       operate the mechanical levers,cheers, Geoff
  HTML https://youtu.be/N09ejgUD_Gk
       #Post#: 1606--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Brakes
   DIR By: Little French
       Date: November 7, 2019, 4:53 am
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       Hello all,
       Personally I tried both systems (mechanics on my 1st CK then
       hydraulics on my second)
       For my 3rd, I'm planning the mechanical system.
       In fact, the braking of our Ck is a false problem, either it is
       effective and the wheels blocked by our Ck are light enough
       Either the braking system is ineffective, and the result is the
       same
       By return of experience:
       The hydraulic type is difficult to adjust, and the stroke of the
       piston is relatively short, which requires a precise adjustment
       between the disc and the pads (not always easy to obtain with
       our CK "DIY")...
       For the mechanical type to give complete satisfaction, several
       essential things must be done
       1 large brake pads
       2 A disc of large diameter
       3 A great race that allows a moderately precise adjustment
       4 Easy adjustment of the stroke of the brake pads
       here is the model of brake caliper which gives me satisfaction
       for a very correct price
       I used this model on 2 other Ck built for friends, and so for my
       next Ck too
       All this is only my point of view, and therefore questionable
       ....  ;)
       [attach=1]
       PS : This model has 2 cable tie, so 1 for the foot brake, and
       the other for the parking brake!
       #Post#: 1607--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Brakes
   DIR By: ChrisS
       Date: November 7, 2019, 7:55 am
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       I've got a Gemini 10inch disc and a Gemini mechanical caliper
       which is operated by a 6mm rod from the pedal.
       It easily locks when only driving one wheel, but with both
       wheels being driven it hasn't got the power to lock them up, so
       it would be nice to have just a little more.
       #Post#: 1610--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Brakes
   DIR By: RhysN
       Date: November 7, 2019, 10:06 am
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       I have tried whatever has been available!
       Remember that either hydraulic or mechanical has no effect on
       the performance of the brakes, it's just an operating system,
       and hydraulic is usually more difficult to get right. First up
       is that the master and slave cylinders MUST be matched as a
       system, unless of course you are able to get all the maths right
       without experiment, and that's pretty specialised. So, if you
       are going to get some old motorcycle parts, get both  the master
       and slave.
       Then you have the leverage ratio on the pedal to the system.
       Brakes for a CK often need to be different to a go kart type,
       wheel diameters are not the same, and according to a brake
       designer that is a huge factor, even with the same weight of
       vehicle, all relates to the torque applied by the wheel, so our
       wheels, overall diameter of around 25" are vastly different to a
       go kart where the overall diameter is about 10", and it's some
       sort of mathematical ratio, not just a factor of 2.5. I guess
       that's why motorcycle systems are a better solution?
       The disc has to get rid of the heat, again all very well to get
       cool air to the disc, but unless the heated air can escape you
       gain nothing. Just like getting cool air to the engine.
       More mass in the brake disc(rotor) will absorb more heat and
       radiate it more quickly so less fade, bigger pads = less fade,
       slots, cross drill etc also help dissipate heat, but not as well
       as more disc mass. More diameter helps too. Extra calipers on
       the disc is a negative help, as it simply shields the disc more.
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