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#Post#: 12017--------------------------------------------------
Filament 3D Printing
By: Richard Holland Date: November 26, 2024, 8:49 am
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I just wanted to throw this out there, as I am quite new to
printing, however I have already noticed a few things.
Some I am looking for input into, others are things I have noted
that may help others.
The filament finish at 0.2mm layers, is not bad at all. I did
wonder if there was an easy way to smooth it a little bit more?
I am talking re functional CK bits, not small models.
Obviuosly sand and fill and paint is one way. I was more
thinking just to tidy edges and knock the worst of the high
points off.
I had heard that Ethyl Acetate (In some nail polish removers)
was apossibility.
I have also noticed that on the free model sites, several of the
parts are very slabby, with sharp corners and edges.
One of these I printed. The sharp corners making stress raisers,
so it cracked. Is there a good glue and putty for PLA repairs?
#Post#: 12018--------------------------------------------------
Re: Filament 3D Printing
By: RhysN Date: November 26, 2024, 9:48 am
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I too am new to 3D, but my son who has used the printer I now
have, a Prusa, tells me that putting filament parts in a box
with a saucer of acetone will "ploish" the filament I have. It
is apparently dependant on the variety of filament you are
using.
The Prusa handbook suggests some sort of superglue (CA) for
joining parts. The slicer I am using comes up with warnings
about corners and such, there's a tick box to hit which blends
and softens them too, maybe only that slicer?
Remember I am totally new to this, less than a week so I am
possibly talking rubbish again.
#Post#: 12021--------------------------------------------------
Re: Filament 3D Printing
By: Moogie38 Date: November 26, 2024, 12:12 pm
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If the part is designed properly it shouldn't have any sharp
corners, it should have fillets to add strength.
Any detailed curved parts i would print at 0.1 layer height ,
minimises the amount of sanding but will increase the print time
considerably .
You can use some of the UV curing resin for the SLA printers to
coat the outside of your part to form a hard coating which is
easier to sand.
Still hait sanding 3D parts no matter what way I do it.
#Post#: 12024--------------------------------------------------
Re: Filament 3D Printing
By: RhysN Date: November 27, 2024, 6:30 am
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As I was having issues printing a piece my son had designed I
went back to instructions. I am using PETG filament, previous
jobs have gone well.
I have just tired again, upped the nozzle temp to 240 and
cleaned the bed properly, no issues.
It seems that not being diligent on cleaning the bed was the
issue, so therefore, Mea Culpa!
#Post#: 12283--------------------------------------------------
Re: Filament 3D Printing
By: jay pratt Date: January 15, 2025, 10:46 am
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I've been 3d printing a while, ive made lots of models and rc
stuff aswell as functional things, the best method I've found to
smooth things out, is resin, UV or the air dry stuff, mixed with
talcum powder to make a paste, then brush it on, when sanded it
leaves an amazing finish.
#Post#: 12617--------------------------------------------------
Re: Filament 3D Printing
By: tim.wheater Date: February 6, 2025, 6:05 am
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Acetone smoothing only works on ABS, with PLA or PETG you are
using filler of some sort and wet n dry. When you have adhesion
issues with the bed use cheap hair spray.
#Post#: 12622--------------------------------------------------
Re: Filament 3D Printing
By: RhysN Date: February 7, 2025, 1:38 am
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Thanks Tim, we have now resolved issues. It seems in the move
from my son's house to here that settings became disturbed,
equally a new reel may have helped.
#Post#: 12623--------------------------------------------------
Re: Filament 3D Printing
By: StefanN Date: February 7, 2025, 2:03 am
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I generally use PLA or occasionally PETG.
I find the brand of filament makes quite a difference to the
results. My favourite at the moment is Creality Hyper Series
which I buy when they have one of their frequent sales.
For smoothing, I typically knock back any lumps with 80 grit and
soften edges etc with 240. I paint with a primer and then sand
the whole thing “across the grain” focusing on any bits that I
care about how they look. Then paint and flatten with 400 grit
until I’ve got the surface I want. A layer of colour, flatten,
final coat of colour.
Orientation of the part when printing makes a difference but
you’ll have to experiment with that. Similarly, tweaking the
gap between any support material and the part can make for a
much cleaner removal of supports. Part design, orientation and
even printing a component in multiple sections that you then
glue together are all useful techniques.
Scraping with a wood scraper can work on some surfaces.
I’m about to experiment with Methyl Acetate on PLA as a chemical
smoother. This can also strengthen the part by bonding the
surface better, but without losing too much detail….or so I’m
told.
Hope that helps.
#Post#: 12624--------------------------------------------------
Re: Filament 3D Printing
By: RhysN Date: February 7, 2025, 7:31 am
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PETG seems to be the material son Sean prefers for the things we
do. It's certainly been adequate, most of what he has done over
the last years has given a more than adequate finish off the
plate. Seems that the thickness setting is partially
responsible. Then again he used to be on the drawing tools all
day, now has a somewhat different role, but still likes to hobby
print. I was given the task as he moves to Canada shortly.
Now I am tasked with learning to turn my thoughts into drawings
for the slicer! CAD has moved from my previous version
(cardboard etc)
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