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#Post#: 23--------------------------------------------------
MG 'M' Type. Brooklands 'Double 12' Racer
DIR By: Graham Hill
Date: January 11, 2019, 12:39 pm
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I chose the MG midget 'M' type partly because it is a small car
to start with and therefore would not lose proportion when
reduced in size to comply with the Stevenson's guide with
respect to wheelbase and track.
I purchased a junked commercial 'BIZKart' from a local circuit
and was able to salvage the following components for reuse: rear
30mm axle, rear wheel hubs, locking axle spacers, driven
sprocket carrier, master brake cylinder and caliper, steering
column with attached pitman arm.
The engine-bolt locating locating pattern was identical for my
new Loncin G200, so I cut out the relevant section of old frame
and welded into my new frame to shortcut the build.
The new chassis is 75 x 25 16 gauge tube which I welded with a
stick welder (not easy without blowing holes!)
The tub sides and floor are 12mm ply, the remaining sections are
4mm ply to allow bending to curve.
The bonnet, apron and skirts are covered in 1.2mm aluminum
curved to shape and screw fixed directly to the ply beneath. The
remainder of the ply body, including the boat tail are covered
with GRP for strength utilising twill weave fabric in lieu of
chopped strand mat, thereby allowing the weave to show through
for a 'fabric' effect.
The wheels are from a pair of Honda 125's. They are 17" x 1.4"
but heavier section steel than the C50-C90 series. The hub
bearing has an OD of 40mm, which meant a selection of new
bearings was readily available.
The foot-pedals are pretty simple go-kart items, bought second
hand (ebay). The seat squab is from an old office chair. The
steering wheel is aluminum and from an old tractor; I fabricated
a spacer boss from an old brass towel rail and connected to a
new quick-release hub (ebay).
Other components came new from Gemini Karts: Loncin G200 engine,
Comet TAV, driven sprocket and chain, throttle cable, tie rods,
axle bearings.
The springs are from Midland Motor Springs, but I ordered them
5mm thick, 4mm would have been more appropriate and others have
learnt from this.
It goes and stops pretty well but I will change the current rear
free-wheel set up to drive both rear wheels, this should make it
more predictable when cornering hard. The engine is stock apart
from the governor being removed.
The steering is very lively and I will be trying to improve this
together with softening up the front springs further before
another major outing.
Any questions on detailing let me know.
#Post#: 2403--------------------------------------------------
Re: MG 'M' Type. Brooklands 'Double 12' Racer
DIR By: Andy_B
Date: June 1, 2020, 12:56 pm
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Hi Graham, Just saw this - My father owns a works original MG
M-type and we also used to have a C-type which as I am sure you
know is the racing version!! He has had the M-type since he was
18 - so much history on it, will have to share with you some
time or better still chat with my dad :)
#Post#: 2406--------------------------------------------------
Re: MG 'M' Type. Brooklands 'Double 12' Racer
DIR By: Graham Hill
Date: June 2, 2020, 3:15 am
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Oh, that's very interesting Andy, thanks. Let's hope things
progress so we talk more soon.
#Post#: 2408--------------------------------------------------
Re: MG 'M' Type. Brooklands 'Double 12' Racer
DIR By: Andy_B
Date: June 2, 2020, 4:35 am
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here are a couple of pics for you Graham - our old green c-type
which i believe went to Germany and Dads M-type
#Post#: 2409--------------------------------------------------
Re: MG 'M' Type. Brooklands 'Double 12' Racer
DIR By: Graham Hill
Date: June 2, 2020, 6:05 am
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That's so cool Andy thanks.
I was pondering whether to introduce a few improvements to the
CK ....... it now appears to be a necessity!
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