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       #Post#: 76175--------------------------------------------------
       How to replace Pro Mac 10-10 oil pickup?
       By: dmccann Date: February 22, 2017, 2:22 pm
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       I am working on the oiler on my 1982 vintage McCulloch 10-10 saw
       and have torn it down to expose the oiler piston pump.  I
       removed the little piston pump (2 screws) and think the problem
       is the combination oil pickup / wafer check valve seat has
       hardened and been scratched over the years.  I found a new one,
       but the problem I am having is how to shove the seat end through
       the intended hole bored in the oil tank.  The diameter of the
       seat end of the pickup hose is a good bit larger than the hole
       it has to go through, and I'm thinking I need to find a way to
       compress the thing so I can shove it through with brute force
       and awkwardness, without damaging the seat face.  So far, no
       luck at all. See pics.
       It would be easier to buy a new saw, but this one still runs
       good and nobody makes a saw built this well anymore.
       #Post#: 76196--------------------------------------------------
       Re: How to replace Pro Mac 10-10 oil pickup?
       By: pete Date: February 23, 2017, 6:05 am
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       my only suggestion would be to lube it well and put a string
       through the hole from the other end loop it around the wider
       section and pull it through maybe try it with the old one first
       hopefully Al smith will chime in and help
       #Post#: 76197--------------------------------------------------
       Re: How to replace Pro Mac 10-10 oil pickup?
       By: dmccann Date: February 23, 2017, 6:17 am
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       I'm wondering if these molded rubber parts have just all become
       stiffer with age.  No telling how old the replacement is that I
       found on ebay - probably been sitting in a repair shops parts
       inventory for 20 years or more.  I'm wondering how they
       installed these at the factory.  I'm thinking like a tiny
       version of a piston ring compressor, but maybe it was just more
       pliable and could be shoved through by hand.  If I can;t get
       through any other way, I'm considering cutting the pickup tube
       suction screen off, then splicing back on afterward with a piece
       of larger tubing used as a sleeve.  I just don't like kludgy
       solutions!
       #Post#: 76248--------------------------------------------------
       Re: How to replace Pro Mac 10-10 oil pickup?
       By: heimannm Date: February 26, 2017, 7:47 pm
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       They will go through but it does take a big effort.  As noted,
       lube it well and try "folding" the flange and poking one side
       through then grab it with a pair of needle nose pliers and pull
       it through.
       Be careful that the "flange" thickness matches the one you took
       out, the older ones had a thinner flange and the later ones have
       a thicker flange.  The gaskets are different thickness as well
       so the flange, gasket, even the disk changes over time.  The
       older ones had the thin flange, thin gasket, and the phenolic
       disk.  Later ones have a thicker flange, thicker gasket, and
       thinner aluminum disk.
       With the wrong combination in there, the disk will never unseat
       and won't allow the pump to pull oil from the tank.
       Mark
       #Post#: 76250--------------------------------------------------
       Re: How to replace Pro Mac 10-10 oil pickup?
       By: dmccann Date: February 27, 2017, 4:53 am
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       Thanks for the input. I also noticed there were at least 2
       versions of this, since my father had an even older 10-10 from
       the 1960s, no longer running that I can salvage some parts from.
       His was the thinner version with phenolic disc - mine was the
       thicker version with aluminum disc (Pro MAC 10-10S).  I almost
       got a thin version through using a technique like you suggested,
       but not the thick one.  So I finally swallowed my pride and cut
       the suction hose, put it through from above, then reattached the
       two pieces with a sleeve of tygon tubing.  I also salvaged a
       pump push rod from the old saw to put in mine, as the pusher
       knob had broken off on mine due to "stressful" conditions while
       using the saw.
       Since accessing the piston pump requires a major disassembly, I
       was a bit concerned that everything might not work after getting
       it all back together, but I now have a working oiler and it runs
       as good as before.  I had already been evaluating new saw models
       for replacement, but nothing I saw on the market was built as
       well as my old McCulloch, so I'm really pleased that I can keep
       cutting with it.
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