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Chainsaw Repair
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#Post#: 67720--------------------------------------------------
PP 655 BP
DIR By: OhioGregg
Date: January 5, 2016, 8:54 am
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Looking for any advice or things to look out for, replacing the
piston on my recently acquired 655bp. It is indeed a bp, pulled
the muffler and can clearly see the boost port on opposite side
of the cyl. But was noticing that it had a standard piston in
it. From what I have been able to gather, early BP's were this
way. Latter ones utilized a piston to take further advantage of
the BP's function. Open skirt on the piston on that side. I have
got a new piston here for it. Just not sure when I'll get
started on it.
I have not even started the saw. And probably doing more work
than is necessary, for what little gain might be achieved. Don't
know. I figured what the heck. If thats what they finally came
up with for this saw, then I will do it also. ;D These Pioneer
based saws are new territory for me. So any things a newbie
needs to know about these when dismantling or putting back
together would be appreciated.
HTML http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f201/Gregg500/655_zpshmfxjw7l.jpg<br
/>
Gregg,
#Post#: 67721--------------------------------------------------
Re: PP 655 BP
DIR By: srcarr52
Date: January 5, 2016, 9:09 am
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That's a nice looking 655!
You won't be able to tell which piston is in it till you have
the cylinder apart. The only difference is the piston skirt
bridge is knocked off on the BP piston so the lower portion of
the boost port will be open longer. You can easily mod the non
BP piston to be the same.
#Post#: 67722--------------------------------------------------
Re: PP 655 BP
DIR By: 3000 FPS
Date: January 5, 2016, 10:15 am
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Nice looking saw Greg. I really don't know a lot about these
saws myself having never taken one apart. From what I
understand though these
saws really run good. Pretty cool. Take some pics when you
tear it down so we can have a look of what is inside the baby.
#Post#: 67723--------------------------------------------------
Re: PP 655 BP
DIR By: OhioGregg
Date: January 5, 2016, 11:28 am
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--- Quote from: srcarr52 link ---
>
> That's a nice looking 655!
>
> You won't be able to tell which piston is in it till you have
the cylinder apart. The only difference is the piston skirt
bridge is knocked off on the BP piston so the lower portion of
the boost port will be open longer. You can easily mod the non
BP piston to be the same.
>
--- End Quote ---
Thanks for the info! DUH! I guess it would be easy enough to
modify the piston thats in it. I think I will go with new
piston though. Don't trust my "modding" skills.
--- Quote from: 3000 FPS link ---
>
> Nice looking saw Greg. I really don't know a lot about these
saws myself having never taken one apart. From what I
understand though these
> saws really run good. Pretty cool. Take some pics when you
tear it down so we can have a look of what is inside the baby.
>
--- End Quote ---
Will do Roger. I bought this saw from Bob, (rdunshee). He said
it starts and runs great. But he never cut with it. I will
certainly do some cutting with it. Can't wait. I have got to
run several of these saws at GTG's, so I know what they are
like! LOL JUst never owned one, till now.
I think while I'm at it, I will put a full wrap handle & dual
spikes on it too. Decals also. I certainly don't NEED a saw like
this, but should make for a good GTG saw if nothing else.
Gregg,
#Post#: 67724--------------------------------------------------
Re: PP 655 BP
DIR By: 660magnum
Date: January 5, 2016, 11:35 am
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To see a clean one, they are certainly impressive.
#Post#: 67725--------------------------------------------------
Re: PP 655 BP
DIR By: Gatekeeper
Date: January 5, 2016, 1:00 pm
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That is a clean one.
#Post#: 67746--------------------------------------------------
Re: PP 655 BP
DIR By: fossil
Date: January 5, 2016, 9:12 pm
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Nice Gregg.
If you don't have the manuals I am attaching links to that
series and the large P series Pioneers which really compliment
each other.
If you need any special info, a friend of mine collects P60's
and has has them torn apart right down to pieces and restored so
I can ask him.
If you put crank seals in it, Be carefully pulling the oiler
gear and make sure it's position is carefully measured so you
can get it back in the same place.
The adapter / reed block to carb are fragile and often crack.
They are getting hard to come by so be careful with them.
Don't leave the fuel cap screwed in when you're not using the
saw. If there's any ethanol in the gas the cap will swell at the
threads and can be very difficult to get off and restore.
Use the decomp when you start it. They can be a tough pull and
kick. Not smooth like a 5200.
The P series are generally pretty easy to work on.
HTML https://app.box.com/s/j4pv065qms179i6d8t61
HTML https://app.box.com/s/ndhrm75lp8o0vka3sfky
#Post#: 67747--------------------------------------------------
Re: PP 655 BP
DIR By: OhioGregg
Date: January 5, 2016, 10:52 pm
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--- Quote from: fossil link ---
>
> Nice Gregg.
>
> If you don't have the manuals I am attaching links to that
series and the large P series Pioneers which really compliment
each other.
> If you need any special info, a friend of mine collects P60's
and has has them torn apart right down to pieces and restored so
I can ask him.
> If you put crank seals in it, Be carefully pulling the oiler
gear and make sure it's position is carefully measured so you
can get it back in the same place.
>
> The adapter / reed block to carb are fragile and often crack.
They are getting hard to come by so be careful with them.
>
> Don't leave the fuel cap screwed in when you're not using the
saw. If there's any ethanol in the gas the cap will swell at the
threads and can be very difficult to get off and restore.
>
> Use the decomp when you start it. They can be a tough pull and
kick. Not smooth like a 5200.
>
> The P series are generally pretty easy to work on.
>
>
HTML https://app.box.com/s/j4pv065qms179i6d8t61
>
>
HTML https://app.box.com/s/ndhrm75lp8o0vka3sfky
>
>
>
>
>
--- End Quote ---
Thanks for the tips & manuals Tim. I think Bob said he had
replaced the oilers, and they work well. So hope not to have to
do anything with them. I'll have to check the fuel cap tomorrow.
I never would have given that a thought. I will take some pics
when ever I get to this thing. Dang cold weather is not
conducive to me out there working on a saw. LOL I
know...gettin to be a wuss in my old age. I do have a big
150,000 btu kerosene heater I could run I guess, if I can't wait
and get ambitious.
The only part that I would like to replace, is the recoil
starter assembly. The cover is kinda rough shape, but works
well. So I will probably be looking for one of those. I found
one that looks like will swap, but have to repaint it yellow and
swap the internals. Its Pioneer green. But thats for down the
road and warmer weather.
Thanks again for the advice! Eh!
Gregg,
#Post#: 67757--------------------------------------------------
Re: PP 655 BP
DIR By: CHAINSAW-PARTS
Date: January 6, 2016, 4:26 pm
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These saw were also built off the Pioneer-Partner P-65 saws.
When they closed the plant in Canada, most of the parts ended up
in our warehouse.
#Post#: 67763--------------------------------------------------
Re: PP 655 BP
DIR By: Chainsawrepair
Date: January 6, 2016, 6:05 pm
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--- Quote from: CHAINSAW-PARTS link ---
>
> These saw were also built off the Pioneer-Partner P-65 saws.
> When they closed the plant in Canada, most of the parts ended
up in our warehouse.
>
>
--- End Quote ---
Welcome to the site.
You can list any of your NOS parts here for free to sell to
folks. Start your own store thread etc in where to buy online
or even in the for sale threads.
Need help just PM me.
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