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#Post#: 62306--------------------------------------------------
early 10-10A
By: countryhog Date: September 28, 2015, 8:19 am
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Finally getting around to my early 10-10A. Has points w/spark,
flat muffler, LOW compression (rings barely stay in the cylinder
for measuring; did measure ~0.067"-wow), no scoring on the p/c,
pinless pistons, plenty of carbon. The exterior of the saw is
UGLY but the inside (oil and fuel tanks and lower end are very
clean. Compression chamber needs a good cleaning. I'm planning
to replace seals and rings
I'm assuming the seals go on when the case is split. What
surprises need I look for when doing the seals and rings? I've
got the case split but haven't pulled the crank off yet. Being
real deliberate so as to not be totally surprised and make
things more difficult (not that I've ever done that). Anyone got
any pix?
Thinking of using three bond on all the gasket surfaces. Good,
bad, or no biggie idea? Never worked on one of these saws
before hence the newbie level questions. Better to have asked
and be deemed a DA rather than not to have asked and truly be
one
Per Aaron the SKF 6119 works on the PTO; does anyone know what
aftermarket seals would work on the flywheel side?
#Post#: 62320--------------------------------------------------
Re: early 10-10A
By: aclarke Date: September 28, 2015, 3:00 pm
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Measure the case O.D and crank diameter where the pto bearing
and seal fit
#Post#: 62325--------------------------------------------------
Re: early 10-10A
By: aclarke Date: September 28, 2015, 5:18 pm
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Bunch of 10-10 crank seals on Ebay. $12 range
#Post#: 62335--------------------------------------------------
Re: early 10-10A
By: Al Smith Date: September 28, 2015, 8:07 pm
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FWIW the early 10-10's used gasket shellac as a sealer, the
later used RTV sealant .I've always used Indian Head gasket
sealer which is nothing but thinned down Permatex. The case
halves do not use a gasket .
#Post#: 62341--------------------------------------------------
Re: early 10-10A
By: aclarke Date: September 28, 2015, 10:13 pm
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Al , that interesting. I put together a 7900 Dolmar case with
the Permatex anaerobic gasket maker and it's still holding after
several years.
#Post#: 62348--------------------------------------------------
Re: early 10-10A
By: Eccentric Date: September 29, 2015, 12:17 am
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The 10-series saws used two different FW side seals. Jerry's
saw uses the less common one. Jerry search eBay for the Mac #
that I gave you on SH. I don't yet have an AM match for that
seal (unlike the other one).
I use Hondabond-4 (Honda branded Threebond 1194) on the
crankcase/oil tank junction.
#Post#: 62361--------------------------------------------------
Re: early 10-10A
By: countryhog Date: September 29, 2015, 8:45 am
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pulled the seals last night. the dimensions I get with my HF
caliper are:
1.564" x 0.564" x 0.257"
spent couple hours doing on-line search and nothing. i'm
guessing the huge OD might have something to do with that. looks
like i'm stuck buying a NOS seal. what is the collective
judgement concerning the "health" of NOS seals?
#Post#: 62436--------------------------------------------------
Re: early 10-10A
By: Al Smith Date: September 29, 2015, 8:38 pm
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I'll look up the cross reference when I get a chance .
FWIW you can most likely buy the seals via Randys engine service
about as cheap as going through a bearing supply house .
#Post#: 62576--------------------------------------------------
Re: early 10-10A
By: countryhog Date: October 1, 2015, 3:55 pm
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went ahead and bought the OE seal for both my 10-10A and PM60
off the bay. almost $13 each. also got OE rings for the 10-10A.
figured since I paid $5 for the saw, why not. now I have $31 in
it. may need to find a 20" bar for it but haven't gone through
my stash yet to see if I have anything.
#Post#: 65389--------------------------------------------------
Re: early 10-10A
By: countryhog Date: November 23, 2015, 4:44 pm
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mostly done
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