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#Post#: 38197--------------------------------------------------
Cordless Drill powered pull starter
By: Chainsawrepair Date: April 7, 2014, 6:21 pm
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Interesting idea. Cordless Drill powered pull starter
Hey Al for that ole 2100 of yours. ;)
HTML http://youtu.be/gDXgljybZ4E
#Post#: 38201--------------------------------------------------
Re: Cordless Drill powered pull starter
By: 3000 FPS Date: April 7, 2014, 6:58 pm
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I can still drop start my 2100, so even though it is a pretty
neat gadget I will not be needing one.
Now as far as Al I don't know. It helps when your up 6000 ft.
#Post#: 38202--------------------------------------------------
Re: Cordless Drill powered pull starter
By: 660magnum Date: April 7, 2014, 6:59 pm
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The cordless pull handle actuator is real neat. It is even
better than mine . . . .
[URL=
HTML http://smg.photobucket.com/user/jamesirl/media/StarterMegatron.jpg.html][img<br
/>width=700
height=525]
HTML http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/StarterMegatron.jpg[/img][/URL]
[URL=
HTML http://smg.photobucket.com/user/jamesirl/media/StarterDynatronMillerReduction.jpg.html][img<br
/>width=700
height=525]
HTML http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/StarterDynatronMillerReduction.jpg[/img][/URL]
#Post#: 38203--------------------------------------------------
Re: Cordless Drill powered pull starter
By: 3000 FPS Date: April 7, 2014, 7:01 pm
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Those look like starters for RC planes.
#Post#: 38204--------------------------------------------------
Re: Cordless Drill powered pull starter
By: 660magnum Date: April 7, 2014, 7:08 pm
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They are for starting the chainsaw engines converted over to
model airplane use.
The non reduction one (Megatron) though it will run on 24 volts,
I use a 12 volt truck battery on it and it turns 2800 no load
rpm @ 600 in-oz torque at the hub and draws 100 amp at that
load.
The 4:1 reduction one (Dynatron), I have set up to use two
emergency light batteries and it turns 2400 no load rpm @2700
in-oz torque at the hub and draws 20 amp at that load.
The reduction unit is a Miller 4:1 reduction unit. You can buy
them to fit either starter.
#Post#: 38206--------------------------------------------------
Re: Cordless Drill powered pull starter
By: 3000 FPS Date: April 7, 2014, 7:21 pm
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Do they fit on the nose of the prop?
#Post#: 38208--------------------------------------------------
Re: Cordless Drill powered pull starter
By: 660magnum Date: April 7, 2014, 7:40 pm
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Yes, you need an aluminum spinner on the front of the engine.
The two hand one I bought at a garage sale after the guy died
but he had a couple 50 cc engines that he started with it all
the time.
The other one I bought unused with the reduction unit at a swap
meet in Columbus, Ohio.
I've had them some 7 years. Wanted one years before but when I
found them for $100 each 2nd hand I bought them.
The reduced speed one came with the reduction on it but I
mounted the assembly on top of the emergency light batteries.
Notice I have a capacitor across the starter button or it will
blow the button up.
#Post#: 38209--------------------------------------------------
Re: Cordless Drill powered pull starter
By: 3000 FPS Date: April 7, 2014, 8:18 pm
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I don't get it. A battery, a DC motor and a switch. What
does the capacitor do to protect the switch.
#Post#: 38212--------------------------------------------------
Re: Cordless Drill powered pull starter
By: 660magnum Date: April 7, 2014, 8:27 pm
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The capacitor is part of a stereo speaker crossover system and
it came from Radio Shack.
The switch blows up when you let go. The collapsed windings of
the electric motor act like a spark plug coil.
Try holding on to the leads of a running golf cart motor and
take your foot off the peddle. It will ruin the rest of your
day.
Even a DC arc welder will sometimes do that when you break the
arc if you are both grounded and the handle is bad and your
gloves wet.
#Post#: 38213--------------------------------------------------
Re: Cordless Drill powered pull starter
By: 660magnum Date: April 7, 2014, 8:37 pm
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The switch contacts were originally beryllium copper and pretty
heavy. There was no capacitor.
The bigger starter without the reduction drive still has the
original switch with the beryllium copper contacts.
Tools made of beryllium copper alloys are strong and hard and do
not create sparks when they strike a steel surface
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