DIR Return Create A Forum - Home
---------------------------------------------------------
Chainsaw Repair
HTML https://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com
---------------------------------------------------------
*****************************************************
DIR Return to: Husqvarna
*****************************************************
#Post#: 1368--------------------------------------------------
Loctiting a Bearing ?
DIR By: wannab12
Date: March 25, 2011, 7:54 am
---------------------------------------------------------
Hey,I have a 385xp that somehow spun the bearing on the
crank,the case is still "tighter than bark to a tree".Gonna
replace the bearings anyhow,so was wondering if anyone has had
success with 680 or 660 loctite in such a situation? the crank
is .001 under the bearing. id.
Another builder has told me he has done so on an Alky saw,so
what do you think ?
Steve
#Post#: 1370--------------------------------------------------
Re: Loctiting a Bearing ?
DIR By: stihlbro
Date: March 25, 2011, 8:02 am
---------------------------------------------------------
Never used the loctite 660 on a chainsaw yet, have a 385 that is
needing the same done. I have used it on the automotive side
with repair sleeve for grooved harmonic balancers and worked
great. Is yours doing this?
[IMG]
HTML http://i795.photobucket.com/albums/yy232/jusmoen/2011-02-24095956.jpg[/img]
#Post#: 1374--------------------------------------------------
Re: Loctiting a Bearing ?
DIR By: wannab12
Date: March 25, 2011, 9:56 am
---------------------------------------------------------
I haven't even run this saw,got it as a fixer upper so as I was
tearing it down the crank "fell" out :o so on further
inspection found it.Adam C. told me he had success with a 7900
Alky burner with the same problem,says it is still running fine.
So I'm going to try it with 680 loctite.
Looks like you have a similar situation.
Steve
#Post#: 1375--------------------------------------------------
Re: Loctiting a Bearing ?
DIR By: Al Smith
Date: March 25, 2011, 10:20 am
---------------------------------------------------------
Old trick! Take a prick punch and "raise " the metal all around
the bearing pocket .You are basically "knurling " the metal .
Loctite makes some stuff called Quick metal press fit .I've got
a tube in front of me as I type and damned if I can find the
number .Never the less press your bearing using some kind of
compound and let it set for a day .It should work .
I did an 048 Stihl maybe 7-8 years ago and never had a problem
.Now I heated the pocket and froze the bearing but I really
don't think it was neccessary .
#Post#: 1379--------------------------------------------------
Re: Loctiting a Bearing ?
DIR By: Chainsawrepair
Date: March 25, 2011, 11:41 am
---------------------------------------------------------
I showed Al the 372 bare crankcases I have that would create a
air leak when both ceramic bearings had spun when the saw would
warm up under 3 cuts. 5ci alky saw. I just gave the builder
another crankcase to use.
But like Al and others said they said it was still usable if one
of the above ways are used.
Joey mine was outer race to crankcase. Good idea on the sleeve
for a different problem. I had to do that on some small block
60's chevy's in the past.
#Post#: 1384--------------------------------------------------
Re: Loctiting a Bearing ?
DIR By: wannab12
Date: March 25, 2011, 2:10 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
Joey, if you try the loctite without disassembling the cases ( I
recall you saying somewhere you may try to "wick" it in under
vacuum),you may have to use the 680 as opposed to 660. The 680
is less viscous than the 660 so may be "pulled" in better.
Steve
#Post#: 1386--------------------------------------------------
Re: Loctiting a Bearing ?
DIR By: stihlbro
Date: March 25, 2011, 3:37 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
Steve, I blanked off the carb and exhaust ports with a piece of
rubber. Rigged up a hose with my vacuum for air condition on a
car, had a guage teed in place and adjusted air regulator so
guage was showing 7 inches of vacuum. Pulling a constant vacuum
on crankcase.
Worked out to about 40 psi and used brake cleaner around the
crank to bearing fit. You could see it pull the brake clean in.
I let it air dry. I used a loctite bearing retainger compound,
dont remember the number, it was blue,and it pulled in place.
The trouble I had was the loctite setting up. It would move so I
was flipping the case while it was setting up. Well, IT DID NOT
WORK, but it was worth a try. I still might yet try again,
because it was only time envolved. The loctite 660 is thicker
and I didnt think it would pull in. I will have to check out the
680.
#Post#: 1413--------------------------------------------------
Re: Loctiting a Bearing ?
DIR By: wannab12
Date: March 26, 2011, 8:11 am
---------------------------------------------------------
Maybe the 680 will do the trick ? I put mine together yesterday
(I had the case split though),and it runns like a trooper ! For
how long is anyones guess.
Steve
#Post#: 1488--------------------------------------------------
Re: Loctiting a Bearing ?
DIR By: Al Smith
Date: March 28, 2011, 7:17 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
I doubt seriously if you would get enough contact surface area
only attempting to force sealant around the edges of a bearing
especialy with blue loctite .
Blue doesn't set up nearly as hard as red .It's used more for
Welch plugs and things of the that nature .As a matter of fact
blue is almost a thing of the past on modern auto engine which
are mostly aluminum .Any loctite used on these now of days is
red .
#Post#: 1649--------------------------------------------------
Re: Loctiting a Bearing ?
DIR By: hamish
Date: April 4, 2011, 7:26 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
Use loctite bearing lock, look it up on the loctite site, works
well just give it time to set.
*****************************************************
Page 1 of 1