DIR Return Create A Forum - Home
---------------------------------------------------------
BCG-Malta Forum
HTML https://bcgmaltaforum.createaforum.com
---------------------------------------------------------
*****************************************************
DIR Return to: Blog Page
*****************************************************
#Post#: 33--------------------------------------------------
Bonsai Styles - Part 1
DIR By: Kengai
Date: November 23, 2020, 10:44 am
---------------------------------------------------------
Introduction
When the general public buys a bonsai tree to decorate the
house, normally they just look at a tree that attracts their
attention, the size is suitable for the location that suits them
and the price is within range. They do not go deep into it and
ask about it, their only question will be ‘How many times I need
to water this tree?’ These thoughts might also be the taughts
of a new comer, but once they dig deeper into the subject, they
starts to understand that bosai trees are styled to accomodate
different styles that the Japanese have created through the
years.
One quickly understand that the different styles of bonsai
closely resemble trees that are found in nature. These sytles
are determined to different factors such as the weather, the
wind, and other elements such as how much sun light falls on the
tree. I just said that bonsai trees are styled to resemble
trees in nature, but I also added another important word:
‘Closely’. Bonsai artists might mimmic trees in natyure, but
the culture of bonsai is more than that: It perfects how nature
looks. Altough bonsai styles are derived from how nature
designs treees in different natural conditions, bonsai trees has
a more perfect look. They are perfectly balanced, something we
will deal later on, they have branches that are situated in the
right position, and they have the perfect apex, always leaning
to the viewers. Some of these aspects might not be all visible
in a tree in nature. To confirm this, the bonsai artist always
change the design of a Yamadori tree. It is not left as nature
intended to make, but it is desinged to a style that shows
perfection.
It is not my intention to stop on this matter, but my idea is to
share with you some information about the basic styles of bonsai
a new commer needs to know. The new commer in bonsai needs to
learn not just what these styles are called, but the most
important thing is to learn how to train and transform a tree
into each particular styles.
Each style should have a specific and different trunk, branch
positioning and the apex. And this is what we will be
discussing in each and every chapter.
Which Style?
The first question for a beginner to solve is: which style
should the tree have? The answer to that is very simple, let
the tree decided for itself. And that is why it is of essential
importance that the new commer should learn about the different
bonsai styles. Knowing about the different styles in bonsai is
the first step, then knowing how to do it it the third step. It
is not a spelling mistake when I said the first and the third
step, since there is another important step, step two, which I
think is the most important one: How to understand the style of
tree the tree has decided for itself. It is this communication,
between the tree and the bonsai artist that determines step two:
ie, which style should the tree be trained in.
To really understand what tthe tree is trying to communicate,
one has to observe attentively. Some trees styles are quickly
understandable, but others might be slightly harder to decide or
to understand. By time, and mostly by practicing on different
tree styles, one can starts to understand the best style to
train for that particular style. Observation and practice is
the key to achieve successful bonsai styles.
Patience
One of the differences between a plant and a bonsai is the short
time a plant can take to achieve its full potential, while a
bonsai takes more and more time to arrive to the moment of being
exhibited for the first time. I did not say, achieve its full
potential, because a bonsai tree is a living art, and as a
living thing, it will never arrive to one full potential moment.
It continues to grow and rthe work of the bonsai artist is to
maintain it in shape or refine it, sometimes with a new style to
regain an exhibition level once again.
Patience is a virtue that the bonsai artist should have with his
bonsai. Time is needed to change a pre bonsai to an acceptable
bonsai, time is needed so that this acceptable bonsai tree is
refined to an exhibition level, and time is needed to keep
achieving maturity to this same tree. Bonsai is a very, very,
long process, but still it can reward the bonsai artist
regularly.
[font=verdana]Formal Upright - Chokkan
This ‘formal upright’ style is a quickly recognisable style,
since it shows a tree that grows straight and in an upright
position. In nature this happens when a tree is planted in an
ideal, location, in an open area with plenty of water and
nourishment. Weather conditions are not to harsh that the tree
cannot withstand, and one can say that this tree is well
pampered.
The conical shape of the formal upright is not as easy as it
looks to style, since one needs trees that naturally grow in a
straight line. The cipress tree can be an ideal contestant for
this style. The striaght trunk and the short needle like leaves
makes it ideal. To prunes a cipress tree in a formal upright
style one has to trim some of the branches and keep the
necessary ones in an alternate position. Back branches should
also be included into this style since one needs to create
depth.
Style Characteristics
The trunk should be perfectly straight, with an even taper,
indication a wide base which will get thinner along it’s height.
Branches should come out alternating one from each side. Back
brances should show the tree’s three dimensions. The branch
size should decrease in size and out reach as they go towards
the apex. They should be in proportion with the trunk thickness
and height.
The Apex should be tapered or slightly rounded.
Style Pruning Technique
1: Start by cleaning all the trunk from dead, unhealthy and tiny
branches.
2: Select the front of the tree. (A topic to discuss in the
future)
3: Clean the soil level until roots (Nebari) that emerge from
the trunk are visible.
4: Indicate the first branch, which will be on the left or right
side of the tree. It should be situated at approximatly
one-fourth of tree’s height. Remove all branches that emerged
in the same level of the first branch.
5: The Second branch should be slightly higher and on the
opposite side.
6: The third branch should be equally higher from the second
branch and in the back position. This back branch is important
to create depth.
7: Branches should continue to be selected in the same pattern.
8: The lower branches should be thicker and longer while the
other branches should get shorter with height.
9: One branch and not the trunk should create the apex.
[font=verdana]Informal Upright - Moyogi
This style carry a twisted and vertically growing trunk. It is
one of the commonly used style. In nature a tree this style has
to come with harsh winds, lack of mositure, and fights in search
of sunlight. The curved and bend trunk is created due to rough
conditions, with heavy winds breaking the trunk and new buds
will develop into the top part of the trunk, thus growing in
different directions, with the ‘cut and grow technique’ thus
creating an interesting style.
Style Characteristics
One can see that the informal upright style is one of the most
popular styles with bonsai artists.
Instead of an informal upright style trees in this style have an
“S” shaped trunk. The informal upright has a tapered twisted
trunk. It grows into an “S” shape rather than straight upwards.
Branches also grow in an alternate way and back branches are
also needed to create the depth of the tree. This style works
very well with different tree species both conifers and
deciduous trees.
The apex should be slightly bent to the front position to give
the sence of movement.
Style Pruning Technique
1: Cleaning the trunk from dead, unhealthy and tiny branches.
2: Select the front of the tree. (A topic to discuss in the
future)
3: Expose the roots (Nebari) by removing the top layer of the
soil mix were possible.
4: Similar to the formal upright style, the first branch should
be situated at approximatly one-fourth of tree’s height on one
side of the tree. Avoid having two cross type branches coming
from the same level.
5: The third branch should be the back branch, situated higher
from the second branch and in the back position.
6: Branches should continue to be selected in the same pattern.
7: The lower branches should be thicker and longer while the
other branches should get shorter with height. The lower branch
should have a slight drop of to mimic a branch that had to carry
a heavy load of snow during winter time.
8: The apex should be created from one branch.
Slanting - Shakan
This is a recognizable style since it shows a tree that is
slanting dramatically into one direction. In nature, this style
can happen for various reasons:
* When heavy winds blow from one direction
* Heavy snow tends to push the tree downwards
* The tree tends to grow in search of sunlight due to the heavy
shade the tree is in
Style Characteristics
A thick base tapered trunk that leans to one side at an angle of
about 60 to 80 degrees to the ground. It does not matter if the
trunk has some movement with slightly bends or it is a straight
trunk. There should be the right balance between the actual
trunk and the branches. Make sure that the roots opposite the
slanting position should be visible and strong, to counter
balance the whole tree.
As in the previous styles, the apex should lean towards the
front.
Style Pruning Technique
1: Cleaning the trunk from all dead, unhealthy and tiny
branches.
2: Select the front of the tree. (A topic to discuss in the
future)
3: Reveal the roots (Nebari) on the opposite side of the
slanting angle.
4: The first branch should be on the opposite side of the slant
position of the tree. It should be at approximatly one-third of
tree’s height.
5: The Second branch should be slightly higher and on the
opposite side.
6: The third branch should be in the back position.
7: The number of branches and their position is not significant
like the formal and informal upright styles.
8: The lower branches should be thicker and longer while the
other branches close to the apex should get shorter and more
compact
9: The apex should have a rounded shape.
Cascade - Kengai
The cascade style is similar to the semi cascade with the
difference that ending part of the trunk stops below the level
of the pot. To maintain the tree from falling, the pot design
is adopted to this style. It is a hight pot, so that there is
enough volome of soil to balance the weight of the tree, which
in itself leand downwards and on one side.
The style represent a tree growing in a mountain side.
Style Characteristics
As we already indicated, this style represents a tree growing on
a mountain side, which grows leaning outwards, towards the light
the light. Due to its own weight with the addition of the snow
during the winter season, the trunk grows downwards. The end
part of the trunk falls way under the nebari, and that is why in
bonsai, the end part of the trunk falles under the pot level.
There is specific indication to were it stops. And it is this
end point that differs from the semi cascade.
A classic cascade style forms a vertical line from the apex,
passing through the root base, (nebari) and down through the
growing tip. This means that the lower part of the trunk at the
growing tip needs to bend inwards.
Pots for cascade are usually tall and heavy, to counterbalance
the weight of the tree. The pot design shall also show a visual
balance. Depending upon the tree characteristics, the top can
be round, square or sometimeshexagonal and with an unglazed
ceramic finish. Other bonsai artists might also use fruit and
floral designs painted on glazed pots.
Longer training time compared to other basic styles is needed,
both for wiring and pruning techniques.
Style Pruning Technique
1: A ‘Yamadori’ collected from mountian tops have all the
specifics for a cascade style.
2: To start one afresh, find a tree whit a sturdy but flexible
trunk that can be bent.
3: Cleaning the trunk from all dead, unhealthy and tiny
branches.
4: Select the front of the tree. (A topic to discuss in the
future)
5: Make sure to reveal the roots (Nebari) on the opposite side
of the angle given to the tree.
6: Bend the first part of the trunk upwards to an angle of
approx 30-45 degrees.
7: The trunk then needs to have a drastic bend and continues to
grow downwards.
8: Avoid to have a striaght trunk, so wire into an ’S’ shape.
9: Select the lowest branch closer to the ‘Nebari’ and form the
apex out of it. The apex should be in a tapered or slightly
round design.
10: Alternate the branches as you go along, placing them on both
sides.
11: Reduce the branches size towards the trunk tip.
12: The tip should be positioned facing the viewer and below the
pot level and bent inwards towards the immaginary line that
cross between the apex, root ball and the end tip.
13: The branches should comes outwards of any curve formed in
the trunk.
Literati - Bunjingi
The literati style is quickly recognisable since it features a
thin and long trunk with minimum foliage. The simplicity of
this style does not reflect the technique that it needs, and it
needs a lot of practice to master the Literati style.
This style depicts trees that are grown in overcrowded areas,
and they needs to elongate its trunk to manage to compete with
other trees in the lower section of the forest in search for
light.
It is recommended to do some research on how others styled their
Literatri bonsai. This will give you an idea on how to design
yours.
Style Characteristics
The literati style has a twisted trunk which grows upwards in
search of sunlight. In bonsai, some bark runnning around and
along the trunk can be stripped off to show deadwood. A literati
style bonsai tree looks intentionally unstable.
The trunk is tapered, but due to the twisted design, its height
and the small diameter, the tapered is not very noticable.
This style involves a small number of branches located only at
the top of the tree. No branches are left on the lower part of
the trunk. Because the foliage is on the top of the tree and
the trunk is very thin. The right pot needs to be selected. It
is a shallow and a wide pot, and in most cases the pot has a
delecate design.
Normally, no surface roots are visible to the literati bonsai
style.
Style Pruning Technique
1: Select a tree that has an extreemly long and thin trunk. A
cipress tree can be ideal.
2: Clean the trunk from all branches, leaving only few branches
at the apex.
3: Using a piece of wire mark a twisted line along the trunk and
make two parallelcuts inside the bark.
4: Remove the bark to show the trunk wood. It will heal in
time.
5: Anchor a thick gauge wire and wire the whole length of the
trunk.
6: Bend the trunk to your desired style. There are more than
one way to style the trunk.
7: Wire the branches and prune to the desired shape.
Windswept - Fukinagashi
The windswept style shows a slanted trunk and its branches
exposed to a very strong wind, thus the name ‘Windswept’. Trees
with this style are naturally found in a mountainous areas or on
windy coastlines. Again this style represents a tree that has
to struggle for survival.
The windswept is considered to be a non-traditional bonsai
style.
In most cases the windswept style bonsai tree is potted on a
slate that represents the surrounding area that nature has to
offer in a windy spot. It an actual pot is used, it should be a
very shallow one, with earthy colours.
Style Characteristics
The trunk has a slanted trunk, and the gedrees alter due to
different heavy winds pushing on the tree itself. All its
branches grow toward one side and in one direction depicting the
heavy winds blowing from that direction. Rearly they grow
upwards, but if they do, they soon bend to the same trunk
direction.
This style require a lot of wiring and bend and some branches
might need close to a 180-degree curve to achieve a natural
look.
The apex is also bent in the same direction.
Similar to a slanting style trees, the roots on the side where
the tree is leaning, are not well developed, but those that are
spreading facing the wind direction needs to be well developed
to keep stability to the tree.
The windswept style represents a tree that is constantly
struggling for survival. Deciduous trees might be ideal for
this style since one can exhibit them with or without leaves.
Ramification should be carried out preofessionally on deciduous
trees since they are bear of any leaves.
Style Pruning Technique
1: Start with a tree that has well developed roots and a
flexible trunk.
2: Clean the trunk from all dead branches. Leave branches at
the front and at the back.
3: Remove branches that are growing towards the wind direction.
4: Anchor a thick gauge wire to the pot and wire the whole
length of the trunk.
5: Wire all the branches and the apex.
6: Bend the trunk to the opposite side of the wind direction.
There are more than one way to bend the trunk. Give some small
curves to the trunk appart from the large directional bend.
7: Repeat the same trunk pattern to all the branches, since they
are facing the same windy conditions.
8: The apex should styled from one branch which tends to grow
upwards, but bent heavily towards the same wind direction.
Broom - Hokidachi
The broom style features branches that are trimmed in a round
crown. This is the only style that incorporates all the
branches and the apex in one dome shape. One do not see any
empty space between the branches and the apex. Broom tree
trunk is mostly formal upright, but you might also find some
trunks in an informal upright style. Although its simplicity,
this style is very difficult to create since there are some
rules. It is also difficult to and maintain, and that is why
they are not so popular in bonsai exhibitions.
Deciduous trees suits perfectly suited for this style due to
their fine branches.
Style Characteristics
The trunk is normally a formal upright style, although some
might exhibit a brrom style witha trunk having slight bends. The
trunk should be tapered and stops one-third of the way of the
whole tree. It does not continue to the tree apex.
Were the trunk stops, is the starting point of the branches.
The branches grow in all direction and their ramifications
covers the 360 degrees. Secondary branches are pruned to a
round shape form. The ramification should show the beauty of the
broom style even in winter, when the tree drops all the leaves.
The broom style needs to have visible root system growing in all
directions.
Style Pruning Technique
1: Find a tree that has a natural ramification system.
2: Clean the lower part of the trunk from all branches. The
trunk should be one-third of the planned overall tree height.
3: Graft four to five the branches with a crown grafted method
(We will discuss this in another article)
4: Let them to grow and thicken.
5: Once the branches are thick enough start creating the
ramification. (We will discuss this in another article)
6: Prune all the secoindary branches in a dome like shape.
To continue read about bonsai styles please go to
'[color=maroon]Bonsai Styles - Part 2[/color]
*****************************************************
Page 1 of 1