DIR Return Create A Forum - Home
---------------------------------------------------------
690 Enduro R
HTML https://690enduro.createaforum.com
---------------------------------------------------------
*****************************************************
DIR Return to: Airbox, Pipes, and Programmers
*****************************************************
#Post#: 288--------------------------------------------------
690 Enduro EFI -- Idiot's Guide link (part I)
By: Rusty Shovel Date: February 13, 2014, 8:50 am
---------------------------------------------------------
[quote author=dave_simpson link=topic=75.msg286#msg286
date=1392246101]
HTML http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=931664
[/quote]
Thanks Dave, for the link. The original poster, El Ponkin at
ADVrider, seems to have done his homework! For convenience's
sake, I've included the text of his post here. If you want to
thanks El Ponkin for donating his time to benefit fellow 690
Enduro owners, you can do so over at ADVrider
(
HTML http://www.advrider.com/forums/index.php
HTML http://www.advrider.com/forums/index.php).
Introduction
My attempt here is to produce an idiot’s guide basically written
by an idiot.
I will placemat the first 10 posts in this thread so that I can
put “Chapters” up as I finish them and keep all the facts on the
first page of the thread. I have read numerous forums and
threads to gather this info and my attempt here is to collate
the information into one place in a logical sequence to save you
the effort of searching, like I had too. I am not claiming to be
an expert I am just acting as a conduit to gather the knowledge
of multiple forums and posts into one place.
Some information will be incomplete and some may be incorrect,
the idea is I post it up and people can PM me corrections or
additional information so it builds into a concise and accurate
guide.
If you have questions you can post them up, but make sure the
answer is NOT already covered in the guide first and then the
collective can come up with the answer and I can add it to the
guide.
Disclaimer
Usual disclaimer in that any work you do on your own bike is at
your own risk and if you are unsure you should be going to a
dealer.
If your bike is in warranty anything you do here will void your
warranty.
This guide is to help those who are mechanically efficient and
computer literate who just want the facts in one place, the
guide will not make you an engineer overnight. Don’t mess with
your bike unless you are completely confident you know what you
are doing and have fully researched the subject.
Resources
These are the major sources for the information I have produced.
HTML http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=685657
HTML http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=685657
HTML http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=666269
HTML http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=666269
HTML http://www.supermotojunkie.com/showthread.php?113690-FREE-KTM-690-Tuning-Software!&
HTML http://www.supermotojunkie.com/showthread.php?113690-FREE-KTM-690-Tuning-Software!&
HTML http://www.monomaniacs.nl/tnt/KTM-690/Stalling-and-throttle-issues
HTML http://www.monomaniacs.nl/tnt/KTM-690/Stalling-and-throttle-issues
HTML http://www.tuneecu.com/
HTML http://www.tuneecu.com/
This final one is a site that has training material on the
common OBDII Electronic Fuel Management Systems.
Select Technical Articles from the LH Menu and then the relevant
courses start from 31.
HTML http://www.autoshop101.com/
HTML http://www.autoshop101.com/
Books:
How to Tune And Modify Motorcycle Engine Management Systems –
Tracy Martin
__________________
HTML http://www.jet-metal.com
HTML http://www.jet-metal.com
********
Chapter 1
The basics about KTM 690 EFI
KTM 690 models all have the same Keihin EFI system. This EFI
system is different in a number of ways than on most - if not
all - other bikes. It uses a 46mm single valve throttle body
with two ECUs. One ECU controls the fuelling & ignition and the
other controls the throttle valve through semi ride-by-wire. The
ECUs interact with each other communicating over a CAN-BUS
connection. The two cables from the throttle grip hook up to the
throttle valve but the ECU has the ability to 'take over' if
needed. Closing the throttle valve is 'hard wired' for safety
reasons. Under normal conditions the throttle valve will follow
the commands from the rider 1:1 but if the throttle commands get
outside the working parameters of the engine, the ECU will take
over controlling the throttle valve in a way that the engine
will keep performing to its optimum. For instance; whacking the
throttle wide open in a split second at 2500 RPM in 5th gear
will normally stall the engine. This is when the throttle ECU
takes over and opens the throttle as quickly as the engine will
allow without stalling, a neat and sophisticated system that
works really well. The fact that you never feel the ECU taking
over when riding a 690 kind of shows how good it works.
Basic Mapping
Because of the setup with two ECUs the 'mapping' or 'fuel map'
for a 690 also consists of two parts/files. A map (file) for the
fuelling: ....FIMap.hex and a file for the throttle:
....EPMap.hex. This has led to problems and confusion with both
dealers and owners. The two parts of a fuel map belong together
and are NOT interchangeable with other fuel maps. When updating
or changing the fuel map it is critical that both files are
downloaded to the bikes' ECUs.
· EPT map: Determines the amount of throttle body opening
relative to handlebar throttle input. Adjustment of this
fly-by-wire throttle permits dramatic changes in response of the
engine to throttle input. This system is what causes a lot of
the twitchiness in the throttle.
· FI map: Determines the amount of fuel delivered depending on
engine load, RPM and throttle body input. This map may utilize
the oxygen sensor or the SAI (secondary air intake) but these
can be selected OFF.
Later we will use a program called TuneECU to access these maps,
the program allows us to access certain data from these maps but
we do not see all of the functions. You will see that the EPT
map takes longer to read than the FI map even though it appears
to do less in the way of mapping tables and that is because
there are other built in functions that TuneECU will not let us
access. The modern engine management systems have monitoring
circuits to make sure certain parameters are not exceeded and
the result can be a “fuel-cut” signal being sent from the ECU,
unfortunately there is very little information available about
the effects of this and what parameters are monitored.
The naming convention for map files indicates the year grouping
that the map is applicable to, in this example the 11 indicates
applicable to 2011 bikes only:
· KM765EU11B0231FIMap.hex
The models EFI systems differ and therefore are grouped
according to year model.
A. 2008-2010 – map code 08
B. 2011 – map code 11
C. 2012-2013 – map code 12
Mapsets available for different set ups.
There are various KTM Map sets (EPT / FI) available for each of
the different year groups as follows:
· Standard – Standard air filter and catalytic converter
exhaust.
· Akrapovic – applicable to most performance pipes – runs lean
at lower RPMs runs rich up higher.
· EVO1 - applicable to most performance pipes with the addition
of the opened up airbox lid. The best map from KTM and the best
bike set up.
· EVO2 - applicable to most performance pipes plus the opened up
airbox lid plus performance camshaft.
Each mapset actually contains submaps that look like excel
spreadsheets that give different values for each combination of
RPM,Throttle setting, pressure etc etc. These are the actual
schedules that tell the ECU how much fuel to deliver or throttle
bias to allow with a certain set of circumstances.
FI Map Submaps:
· F submap is the fuel mapping based on throttle position – it
shows injection pulse width according to throttle plate opening@
given rpm
· F Trim Adjustment for the fuel table F (in%)
· L submap is the fuel mapping based manifold pressure –
injection pulse width according to manifold absolute pressure
(MAP) @ given rpm
· I table is the ignition mapping
· I Trim Correction tables for Ignition advance (I) in degrees.
· F-L switch submap sets the threshold where the vacuum mapping
goes over into the throttle mapping.
EP Submaps
· Throttle submap is the throttle by wire map, shows percentage
throttle for each RPM thus affecting the sensitivity of the
throttle, 100% is basically 1 to 1 ratio.
There is a different F,L,I and Throttle submap for each number
on the map select switch dial under your seat (0,1,2,3) If you
are in position 2 on the dial then you will be using L1, F1, I1,
and Throttle "performance" submaps.
Obviously KTM have set these tables up to accommodate the
different set ups of exhaust and air filter, but remember they
have to meet stringent emission regulations and hence the tables
all have calculations based on emission regs and not necessarily
the optimum settings, later you will see how we can customise
these individual submaps to fine tune for optimum performance.
Map Select Switch under the seat
The Map select switch under the seat has 10 positions these
relate to the following settings:
0 – Poor fuel
1 – Soft
2 – Performance
3 – Standard (4-9 is the same)
As discussed above these settings will change which submaps the
ECU is using to control the engine.
With some of the maps all of the "L" maps are the same, all of
the "F" maps are the same and all of the "I" maps are the same
(except for "I low octane fuel"). So in these cases, the only
change to feel or performance that this switch does is to change
the EP map which only affects the throttle sensitivity.
*******
Chapter 2
Diagnosing EFI
Understand that these bikes have issues with fuel quality and
operation of the fuel pump.
The rear filler design and the minute fuel injector nozzle mean
that crap can get in and stop the bike. In normal use the pump
attracts a grey residue from the fuel tank material that will
eventually block filters. Also the plumbing of the pump can get
kinked lines and electrical connectors can work loose. So make
sure that you eradicate all pump and injector issues before
trying to diagnose an EFI fault.
EFI systems are electrically controlled and driven, fault
monitoring circuits therefore can only detect electrical faults
and monitor for extremes i.e. open circuit or short circuit. If
a sensor is misreading it will not be detected as a fault until
its parameters go outside of set limits. If any sensors go
outside limits you will get a flashing FI light and the KTM
operators manual will be able to interpret the “blink” code
which is kind of like “morse” code from the FI light blinking so
many long and short blinks.
If you have a mechanical fault, a sensor reading incorrectly or
an incorrectly adjusted sensor there will be no warning. If you
have a combination of a couple of faults it can get very hard to
diagnose, particularly if you are dealership mechanic on a tight
timeframe servicing a multitude of weaponry you simply won’t
have the time to get fully up to speed on one particular model.
My thoughts are that you as the owner need to become an expert.
As KTM use a specific KTM diagnostics box to read and adjust the
ECUs the price is inhibitive for the general home mechanic
however some bright spark came up with a program called TuneECU.
ECU Fault Monitoring
The ECU monitors many items for electrical faults and is looking
for them to be in a set range, if outside these values the ECU
will give a fault. Several sensors are purely there to fine tune
emissions to get the bike to pass the stringent European
legislation and in most cases these systems are what upsets the
ride- ability of the bike and they can be disabled without any
issues.
As there are so many sensors obviously the more you can disable
then the less likely you will get a fault. KTM terminology is
not consistent through their manuals so some names may vary
depending on what manual you are looking at.
· Crankshaft Position Sensor – Determines engine speed and Top
Dead Centre position.
· Throttle Position Sensor (Circuit A) – referred to as THAD in
the KTM Manual, it is on the LH Side of throttle body and senses
the throttle body butterfly valve position.
· Accelerator Position Sensor – referred to as APAD in the KTM
Manual, RH Side of throttle body and senses the cable input from
the throttle.
· Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor – On top of the throttle
body. The engine ECU uses barometric pressure to get ideal
air/fuel mixture, thinner air = less fuel. 1013 hPa at sea level
and 15 degrees Celsius air temperature is normal pressure.
Barometric air pressure will vary from 960 to 1050 hPa. 988 hPa
is normal with engine off, when you start the engine and rev it,
more suction = less pressure.
· Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor – changes fuel schedule
during cold starting. Just below spark plug.
· Intake Air Temperature Sensor – Located inside the airbox and
can be damaged by oil contamination. NTC thermistor should be
100k at 25 degrees C.
· Ambient Air Pressure Sensor – Located under the instrument
cluster behind the headlight, the sensing tube must be pointing
down.
· Rollover Sensor – Like a crash switch, just in behind the rear
brake reservoir.
· Lambda Sensor – Senses O2 in the exhaust to trim the fuel
mixture a little, turned off with Performance Mapping. Located
in the exhaust just below the radiator. Cold engine uses open
loop and it switches to closed loop as soon as the lambda
sensors reach their operating temperature, This might have
something to do with the issue that few people have reported
(the bike stalls after 10 s).ECU will use open loop operation in
warm engine also whenever there is enough engine load
(acceleration). The O2 sensor is only a narrow band sensor and
therefore hasn’t got much authority over fuel flow, it can only
make slight adjustments , more for emission control.
· System Voltage – EFI systems are sensitive to volts and need a
minimum voltage to work.
· Sidestand switch – Can be removed and resistor put in its
place.
· Ignition Coil
· Fuel Pump Controller
· Lambda Sensor Heater – Heater in the O2 sensor.
· Fuel Evaporation Valve – USA Models only
· Secondary Air Valve – Commonly called SAI, turned off with
Performance Mapping. LH Side mounted by the side of the airbox
up near the radiator.
· EPT Motor Drive Relay Permission
· Motor Drive – this electrical motor drives the throttle body
butterfly valve.
· Motor Drive Hall Sensor
· Motor Drive Voltage.
· CAN Bus Communication – electronic communication between
system components.
· Gear position sensor
According to the KTM tech, the 2011 bikes have different sensors
than the previous 690's, so the resistance values maybe
different.
Don’ts with EFI
As the EFI system is working on such minute voltage changes the
electrical connections in the circuit are critical.
· Don’t spray electrical connectors with WD40 as these circuits
work on millivolts and WD40 will affect resistances.
· Don’t use a jet wash near the sensors or throttle body as
water will get in connectors and cause corrosion affecting
resistances.
******
Chapter 3
TuneECU
TuneECU is a free program that can be used instead of the KTM
Diagnostic tool. Please donate to the users if you find the
program useful to help them keep the project going.
The program will allow you to access diagnostics, read sensor
values, set up sensors, read / reset fault codes and read /
change mapping.
EFI systems all follow a set format called OBDII so a standard
cable is used just with an adapter lead to the KTM connector
under the seat.
It is highly important to buy a good quality cable from a
reputable distributor as many have had problems with cheap ebay
alternates. I bought mine from here:
HTML http://www.cjdesignsllc.com/.
Use extra care when disconnecting the cable from your bike, by
that I mean pull on the right part of the plug housing and not
the cable/harness so as not to encourage it coming apart.
So go to this website and read all about it and download and
read the user guide to fully understand how it works.
HTML http://www.tuneecu.com/
HTML http://www.tuneecu.com/
To set the system up on your laptop you will need to download
the following:
· The program
· The drivers for the cable (these are specific to your computer
operating system – Mine is Windows 7 with 64 bit – see note
below ref determining whether 32 or 64 bit).
· The maps
The website has strict recommendations on how and where to store
these files on your computer and making sure that the computer
is not on the internet when first connecting the lead as you
don’t want it to use any drivers from the internet, it must use
the specified driver that you download.
Once up to speed with TuneECU you will be able to read and save
current maps and flash new ones. You will also be able to access
the diagnostics page and read real time sensor values and set up
your Throttle Position Sensor.
Installing Drivers
Installing the cable drivers is probably the most difficult part
of the whole process as computers now automate this process and
it can be hard to stop that automatic process to insist on
installing your own specific drivers.
These installation guides can help to overcome any issues
depending on your operating system:
HTML http://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Documents/InstallGuides.htm
HTML http://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Documents/InstallGuides.htm
How to determine whether your Windows 7 is 32 Bit or 64 Bit.
Click the Start button, right-click Computer, and then click
Properties.
If "64-bit Operating System" is listed next to System type,
you’re running the 64-bit version of Windows 7.
If "32-bit Operating System" is listed next to System type,
you’re running the 32-bit version of Windows 7.
Download the corresponding Driver for your cable from here:
HTML http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/D2XX.htm
HTML http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/D2XX.htm
Now watch the video
HTML http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ctNjC_7HtjE
HTML http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ctNjC_7HtjE
HTML http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hE2GnnqWWE
HTML http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hE2GnnqWWE
How to see what Map is loaded on your bike
When you are connected with the bike in tune ECU, in Map Edit,
you will see ECU info in the top left corner, ECU serial, ECU
map, checksum. You can toggle between the two ECUs to each of
the two map names by clicking on the map name.
Or
When you are in the Map Edit, you press ECU - then Read Map -
and here you can choose to read FI or EP map and the map code
stands there to, just click cancel if you don’t want to read
them to the computer.
Working with Maps on the bike
When you are connected with the bike in tune ECU you must
understand that the display panel will tell you what map is
loaded on the bike and you can “read” and “save” that map and
“download” a new map but you cannot make “live” changes to the
currently installed map.
To explain it another way if you wanted to customise the current
maps that are on the bike you would have to “read” them to
display them in Tune ECU then make the changes in TuneECU before
“downloading” them back to the bike. So you can see you only
need to connect to the bike to “read”, “save” or “download”. All
work to be done to change or customise mapping can be done in
TuneECU whilst disconnected from the bike.
#Post#: 289--------------------------------------------------
690 Enduro EFI -- Idiot's Guide link (part II)
By: Rusty Shovel Date: February 13, 2014, 9:07 am
---------------------------------------------------------
Chapter 4
Remapping
WARNINGS – READ THESE OR ELSE:
Make sure that you have a decent charge in your battery or hook
it up to a tender/charger. Reading maps from your bike takes
about 45min and re-writing, re-mapping, (downloading, flashing)
takes just about few minutes.
If the power drops out or computer trips up during this process
the ECU will freeze, if this happens you will need to carefully
read the TuneECU guide to recover the ECU. This is the risky
side of this operation so make sure you have back up for your
bike battery and that your laptop isn’t going to run out half
way through either.
Don’t have any other EFI Programs running on your computer
whilst connected to the bike as some can cause damage. Only use
the TuneECU program whilst connected.
Procedure:
1. As you cannot turn off the headlight you must remove the
headlight fuse in order to save battery charge (15A, blue)
HTML http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u195/Elponkin/TuneECU/1_zps0c90e43b.jpg
2. Locate the ECU test connection and carefully remove the
blanking plug. Attach the cable to your bike and turn the
ignition ON. (You can connect the cables wrong, check out the
pins and make sure you orientate the plug correctly before
pushing it in)
HTML http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u195/Elponkin/TuneECU/2_zps5f12da31.jpg
3. Start up the TuneECU software.
Three views are possible and can be selected in the top
right-hand-corner.
Maps - allows view and editing of maps
Diagnostics - Allow you to see a wide variety of parameters the
ECU is monitoring such as barometric pressure, oil temp, ambient
temp, engine load, throttle voltage.
Tests - Allows you to perform several tests on the bike via the
ECU
NOTE: When opening the program for the first time the opening
screen is set to Triumph by default, it will change to KTM upon
connection or loading a map.
NOTE: As a default, it should connect to your bike. If it
doesn't, select the ECU menu and click connect. You will see in
the “Options” menu a selection for “Auto Connect” and you can
select this if you like, if working in TuneECU whilst
disconnected from the bike it is best to uncheck this to stop
the annoying pop up telling you it can’t connect.
Within 30 seconds, a little rectangle will blink in the lower
right-hand-corner of the application. Initially it will be red
when sensing the connection and turn to green once a connection
is established.
HTML http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u195/Elponkin/TuneECU/3_zpsa5c08408.jpg
4. After a while TuneECU has read the sensor readings.
HTML http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u195/Elponkin/TuneECU/4_zps7f709fc7.jpg
5. Move to the "Download" page. Reading your currently installed
map and saving it is recommended as a fail-safe feature at least
if your recent map is not available at Tune ECU site. Just make
a backup.
The Green arrow below shows the ECU info and this will indicate
what map is currently loaded in the bike, you can click on the
Map number and it will toggle between the EP map number and the
FI map number.
NOTE: TuneECU does not display the Maps currently loaded on the
bike in the tables, the table displayed is the last map that you
chose to “open” or “read” it is not looking “live” at the map
that is on the bike. You can see the Red arrow shows the
computer address of the map that is currently being displayed.
To display the map currently installed in the bike you must
first “Read” the map. To do this from the ECU menu select Read.
HTML http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u195/Elponkin/TuneECU/5_zps369cde90.jpg
6. TuneECU software will ask which map you want to Read. Select
the first map and select Read. TuneECU will then commence
reading the map and copying it to the tables. A green progress
bar will appear at the bottom of the tables which will indicate
the percentage read.
NOTE: The FI map takes about 10 mins but the EP map takes about
30 mins.
BE PATIENT AND DON’T MESS WITH ANYTHING.
HTML http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u195/Elponkin/TuneECU/6_zpsca23972c.jpg
7. After the Map has finished being read you must then save the
map to your laptop so you keep a copy of what was originally
installed in case you have a problem. Select the File Menu and
click on Save Map File.
HTML http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u195/Elponkin/TuneECU/7_zps714c9acc.jpg
8. Create a folder for the existing maps and save to that
folder.
HTML http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u195/Elponkin/TuneECU/8_zps0979eb9d.jpg
9. Now repeat the “read and save” process for the EP Map.
10. Now the old maps are secured it is time to install new ones.
Select File Menu and click on Open Map File.
HTML http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u195/Elponkin/TuneECU/9_zpsf2939b92.jpg
11. Open the map that you're going to install starting with the
EP Map. In this case we are installing the EVO1 maps for a 2011
bike.
HTML http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u195/Elponkin/TuneECU/9a_zps1a1376fd.jpg
12. Once you have opened your new map it will be displayed in
the tables. To Install the map on the bike select the ECU menu
and click on Download. A warning will pop up explaining the
dangers of loading an incorrect map, this is a standard warning
that will always show and acts as a timely reminder to ensure
you have selected the correct map. Click Ok and the download to
the bike will commence. It only takes a couple of minutes and
again you will see the progress bar as this happens.
NOTE: The Red circle in the screenshot shows the path to the map
file which is going to be downloaded.
HTML http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u195/Elponkin/TuneECU/9b_zpsa7a0278d.jpg
13. After the EP map install you must do a Throttle Calibration.
The bike remains hooked up through this process so you can
monitor the throttle calibration with TuneECU. Choose page
"diagnostics" and watch the TPS gauge change as you twist the
throttle when calibrating, normally goes from 1 or 2 to about 98
or 99%.
.
Carry out as follows:
Turn the ignition off for 10 secs
Turn ignition back on and Twist the throttle grip slowly to full
open and then slowly to full close and then turn the ignition
back off.
Turn the ignition back on and make sure TuneECU reconnects
automatically and you get a green bar again in the bottom RH
corner.
HTML http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u195/Elponkin/TuneECU/9c_zps4085de54.jpg
14. Repeat items 12 and 13 to install the FI map with the
following addition:
Once you have opened the FI map you need to make sure you have
the right boxes ticked on or off under the “Devices” heading. If
you have SAS plugged, you should uncheck the SAI box. If you
have the O2 lambda sensor removed you should uncheck the O2 box.
If they are still fitted you can decide whether to just
electrically disable them or not just by unchecking each box, I
would recommend they be disabled for smoother running if you do
not have the standard exhaust still fitted.
NOTE: as long as these checkboxes are unchecked i.e. disabled
the sensors can be removed WITHOUT having to fit a slave
resistor and there will be no FI warnings and map loading will
work fine with them not fitted.
Now download the FI map to the bike as we did before for the EP
map.
NOTE: The Red circle in the screenshot below shows the path to
the map file which is going to be downloaded.
HTML http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u195/Elponkin/TuneECU/9d_zpsbd117666.jpg
15. After the FI map is installed you must do the 15 min
“adaptation” run as follows:
NOTE: The engine must be stone cold and throughout the process
do not touch the throttle. Leave the bike connected to the
laptop but make sure the cabling is away from the exhaust heat.
Start the engine and let it run for 15 min.
After 15 mins Kill the engine with the ignition key.
You can monitor the 15 min adaptation run with TuneECU. Choose
page "diagnostics" and watch the IAT and Coolant Temp rise when
idling and the fan kicking in and out to control water temp.
16. Once complete and with the ignition off, shutdown the
TuneECU program and disconnect the cable.
Remember to reinstall the blanking cap on the ECU connector and
then restow it out of harms way. Refit the headlight fuse and
refit the seat. Job done.
HTML http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u195/Elponkin/TuneECU/9e_zpsaf0bf724.jpg
#Post#: 290--------------------------------------------------
690 Enduro EFI -- Idiot's Guide link (part III)
By: Rusty Shovel Date: February 13, 2014, 9:14 am
---------------------------------------------------------
Chapter 5
Tune ECU Experimentation
For a more in-depth look into customising maps check out this
link
HTML http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=666269
HTML http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=666269
Warning.
When customising maps you can seriously damage your engine. It
is best to have the mapping customised by an expert with the
bike on a dyno.
Customising Maps
HTML http://Customising Maps
The F map is usable at high engine load when MAP (Manifold Air
Pressure) is close to atmosphere or there is just a little under
pressure.
The L map is usable at low engine load, when there is much under
pressure.
When you are cruising at suburban speeds the throttle plate is
almost completely shut. The pressure in the manifold is very
low. L-map starts from 190 hPa, which is approx. 0,19 *
atmospheric pressure. KTM 690 fuel pressure is 3,5 bar or 3500
hPa. The amount of fuel being delivered to the manifold is
defined by 2 things; pulse width (injector open) + pressure
difference. Injecting the same, let's say 8000 µs, at 0,2 bar
MAP compared to 0,9 bar MAP makes 19% difference in the amount
of fuel injected. That makes a lot in terms of Air Fuel Ratio
(AFR). Therefore, you need to match the pulse width to manifold
(under) pressure.
The F-L switch map controls the point at which fuel scheduling
goes from the L map to the F Map. The F-L map can be tweaked to
read 10,10,0,0,0,0,0 and this means that the bike's ECU uses
almost all the time the F map. 10 means 10% throttle as a limit
to change using F map. At higher revs (1800 and up) the limit is
0%. So the bike is using the F map practically all the time.
The L map is more accurate at low engine load. That's where the
jerky ride and stalling gremlin lives. L map has also the
ability to adapt to changed airflow conditions like clogged air
filter or changing atmospheric pressure (high elevation,
barometric low).
In 690cc KTM 690 bikes (2012-) there is no need to tweak the F-L
switch map.
The F-maps can be edited in two different ways:
· If you want to make a change that will be applied to all the
F-maps you can select "Edit" from the drop-down menu and click
the option to "use F-trim for all F tables". Then you can select
the F-trim icon in the left hand column and then change all the
"0s" to "4s". Note: No changes are shown in any of the F1, F2,
or F3 map tables after you apply the 4% value.
· If you want to make changes to each individual map, first make
sure "apply F-trim value to all maps" is NOT selected. Then you
select a map you want to edit and highlight all the cells. Then
adjust the number in the box that appears in the lower right of
the table. Hit enter and the map values in the table will
update. Select the next F-map and repeat.
The L-maps are changed the same way you change the F-maps
individually. You select a map and then highlight all the cells
and adjust the number in the box that appears in the lower right
of the table. Hit enter and the map values in the table will
update. Select the next L-map and repeat.
Always work on a renamed copy of the file and don't forget to
save it.
Check out this link to the full process with pics:
HTML http://advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=15358449&postcount=13
HTML http://advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=15358449&postcount=13
When you really get into it then read this forum and join the
elite:
HTML http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=685657&page=3
HTML http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=685657&page=3
*********
Chapter 6
KTM 690 - Stalling and throttle issues
Sourced from:
HTML http://www.monomaniacs.nl/tnt/KTM-690/Stalling-and-throttle-issues
HTML http://www.monomaniacs.nl/tnt/KTM-690/Stalling-and-throttle-issues
A lot of 690 owners complain about stalling and/or a jerky
throttle response. While there are differences between
individual bikes (and their owners...), there seems to be no
pattern in models or production years. Some bikes suffer more
from stalling and throttle glitches than others. Most don't at
all or only occasionally. But these niggles are usually easy to
solve!
The fact that KTM 690s are a bit more sensitive to stalling
and/or throttle issues is down to two important factors;
performance and emission & noise regs. The 690 is one of the
strongest 4-stroke singles on the market today, this means a
relatively high state of tune, big valves, big ports, big
throttle body, high compression, low rotating mass etc. But the
690 also has to meet the ever tougher regulations for emissions
and noise. Power & performance do not go hand-in-hand with noise
& emissions regs very well, especially not with a big single.
The Lambda sensor controlled EFI keeps the engine on a
super-lean mixture, catalytic converter(s), Secondary Air
System, throttle restriction in 2nd & 3rd gear are all there to
make it pass the murdering emission & noise regs. They do not
help the engine... they do exactly the opposite. The high
performance concept & design of the 690s combined with all the
environmental measures makes them more sensitive to the right
setup and adjustments.
But we all want that performance so stop moaning and deal with
it properly. 95% of the stalling and throttle issues are easily
solved and are usually only down to proper service and dealer
knowledge.
These are the steps to follow to kill throttle gremlins:
1.Throttle calibration (All)
2.Idle reset procedure (All)
3.Throttle sensor check/adjustment (Values change depending on
year model)
4.Idle CO check/adjustment
1. Throttle calibration
The simplest one. This re-calibrates the start & stop position
of the throttle grip. Turn the ignition on but don't start. Wait
for the tacho needle to return to zero. Then turn the throttle
grip gradually from close to open and back from open to closed.
Don't let it snap shut. Turn the ignition off, done.
2. Idle reset procedure
The 'famous' 15 minute idle reset procedure. This resets the
adaptive base values of the ECU. It won't transform the bike but
it can make a worthwhile improvement. It is very important that
the engine is stone cold. One or two hours after riding is not
enough! Do this after the bike has been off for a full night or
day. Start the engine and let it idle for 15 minutes without
touching anything. After 15 minutes, switch the engine off with
the ignition key. Done. During this procedure you won't see or
hear anything happening besides the idling and (probably) the
fan. Don't worry, the reset is done. Besides after certain
maintenance or parts replacement, you could consider doing it
twice a year with the turning of the seasons. A reset for the
colder autumn & winter period and one time for warmer conditions
during spring & summer. This is not mandatory or needed and
don't expect miracles.
3. Throttle sensor check/adjustment
This requires a KTM diagnostics tool hooked up to the bike or
use TuneECU as described before. There are two throttle sensors
on the throttle body (where the carb used to be...). On the left
hand side is the sensor controlled by the ECU. This one is used
when the ECU takes over the control of the throttle valve from
the rider (ride by wire with data from the throttle map). On the
right hand side is the sensor connected to the throttle cables
coming from the throttle grip. This is the one that makes you
think you're in control. :-) Both sensors interact with each
other and each has its own base adjustment. It's not difficult
to understand that these are important. The abbreviations in the
maintenance & repair manual for these base adjustments are
'THAD' and 'APAD'. The procedure is pretty straightforward but
precise. It shouldn't take longer than 20 minutes or so. After
adjustment it makes sense to do a “Throttle Calibration” as per
step 1 above. On the left side is the TPS "THAD" basic setting
is 0.50 - 0.54v this is the throttle position for the ECU
throttle butterfly closed with your finger. On the right side is
the TPS "APAD" basic setting is 0.70 - 0.74v this is the
throttle grip position sensor These settings are from the
2008-2010 manuals (2011 is different and I haven’t found the
values yet). Be aware there is a plastic tag on the TPS driving
the butterfly so be careful not to break it off by being to
rough.
4. Idle & Load CO check/adjustment
This requires a KTM diagnostics tool hooked up to the bike or
use TuneECU as described later. There is some control over the
idle & load mixture through adjustment of the CO targets from
the ECU. This is within a limited bandwith but enough to iron
out idle or fueling glitches. Adjustments are made by up & down
mouse-clicks with real time bar graphs on the screen that show
what happens. Very easy. Only small changes at a time should be
made. The effect of changes to the idle CO take a while to show
in the graphs. The target for load CO (riding) is usually set at
1.000. This is Lamda 1 and corresponds to an air/fuel mixture of
1:14.7. Adjustment of this value goes in small steps of 0.008
but has a clear effect on the mixture throughout the rev range.
Only one or two steps is enough. Not more because the mixture is
likely to become too rich or lean. So if the mixture needs to be
a little richer (probably) this would be 1.008 or 1.016. Ideally
this should be done on a dyno but minor adjustments like this
can be done by 'set & ride' too.
After these 4 steps, 99% of all idle and throttle glitches will
be solved. Most already after steps 1 to 3. If not, something
else is really wrong or malfunctioning but this is rarely the
case. If so, there is a big chance the cause will show up on the
diagnostics page of TuneECU in the error message log.
Idle Figures
2200 idle rpm when cold is normal, 1650 when hot is normal idle
rpm.
#Post#: 291--------------------------------------------------
690 Enduro EFI -- Idiot's Guide link (part IV)
By: Rusty Shovel Date: February 13, 2014, 9:22 am
---------------------------------------------------------
Chapter 7
Setting up the Throttle sensor.
Sourced from:
HTML http://www.supermotojunkie.com/showthread.php?115864-KTM-690-fix-staling-problem-using-TuneECU&highlight=
HTML http://www.supermotojunkie.com/showthread.php?115864-KTM-690-fix-staling-problem-using-TuneECU&highlight=
KTM 690 fix stalling problem using TuneECU
I spent a week trying to get bike not to stall after loading any
kind of map with after market slip-on exhaust. This is a guide
on how to do it yourself in much less time.
Symptoms:
1. Bike stalls after start up when cold. You need to fire it up
every 10 or 30 sec. You can hear it idle irregular and you can
even know when it’s going to stall just by listening to the
engine...
2. Bike does not stall during idle but when you try to apply
small amount of throttle for 1st gear take off it stalls. During
idle try to open throttle by very small amounts Very slowly and
you can hear engine running irregular or even stall.
Cause of the problem is in the two throttle sensors on each side
of keihin throttle body. For the ECU to know how much throttle
is opened, its sensors need to be reading the same voltage. If
sensors are not aligned the ECU will think it has throttle
opening of 3% while actual opening would be 5% or more, it can
also go the other way around. Also if sensors are not aligned
the ECU will not pickup small throttle openings that you apply
around idle.
To fix this you need to use the TuneECU program, the voltage
figures particular to your year model and some tools. To be able
to unscrew throttle sensors you will need a torx t20 bit that
has a hole in middle.
The procedure on how to adjust these 2 sensors can also be found
in the KTM Repair manual from pages 165-169. I also advise to
read it twice. In manual this procedure is explained using the
KTM diagnostic tool. You don’t need the tool to adjust anything
you just need it to read voltages so therefore you can use
TuneECU instead as it will read and show the voltages.
Try to read all of the TuneECU guides to get familiar on how to
use this software before u start to adjust sensors.
2008-2010 Year Models Procedure:
Remember these wise words “If it isn’t broke don’t fix it”, only
do this procedure if you have a problem and only then if you are
absolutely sure you know what you are doing. I believe KTM
change the throttle body as a complete assembly so if you bugger
it up it will be expensive.
Remember to disconnect the stepper motor before pushing with
finger.
These values are for 2008-2010 Models ONLY I do not have the
figures or procedure for 2011 onwards yet.
Do this while engine is as cold as possible. Always consult
manual first before doing any of this. I am not explaining how
to turn every bolt around and I am using nuts and connector
names and numbers as in the KTM repair manual.
1. Take off the seat, body fairing and air box (don’t forget to
unplug air temp sensor before you remove the air box),
2. Unplug the motor drive connector that’s under the keihin
throttle body on the left side of the bike (connector DR1 from
manual). There are 2 connectors and DR1 is one that has more
than 3 wires. You will know if you unplug the wrong one by
hearing the drive motor working when you use your finger to
fully close throttle valve (see repair manual on how to close it
with your finger).
HTML http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u195/Elponkin/TuneECU/a_zps3ce9294d.jpg
3. Now connect TuneECU to the bike and go to diagnostic menu.
When its communicating with the bikes ECU you will see most of
bikes sensors values appear in Diagnostic menu.
HTML http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u195/Elponkin/TuneECU/b_zpsc496ab7b.jpg
What you need is to be able to see is the 2 voltage values under
the "Throttle" menu on the left side of the TuneECU Diagnostic
window. Both upper and lower voltage should be round 0.70-0.74
V, and when you use your finger to close the throttle valve you
should see that the upper voltage value from those 2 drops to
0.50-0.54V. Now if ANY of these voltages is only 0.1V off from
what it should be you need to adjust all 3 readings.
NOTE: Apologies for the screenshot – As it is a shot from my
2011 the figures are obviously not the same as the 2008-2010
model that we are discussing.
4. Check that the upper voltage value drops to 0.50-0.54V when
you press the throttle valve to the closed position with your
finger. Do this gently as there is a plastic tang that can be
damaged. This is referred to in the manual as the Throttle
Position Sensor Circuit A Basic Position – Voltage “THAD”.
HTML http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u195/Elponkin/TuneECU/c_zps8db5c57c.jpg
If the value is incorrect you need to adjust the TPS that is on
left side of the bike (item 3 below), it’s on the same side as
where you unplug the motor drive connector. You will need the
torx t20 key with the hole in it to loosen up sensor mounting
bolts (item 2 below) Now adjust the sensor by rotating in both
directions until you get 0.50-0.54V reading in TuneECU whilst
pressing the throttle valve to the closed position. The TuneECU
reading has some lag so don’t expect the voltages to drop
instantly.
Now make sure that the voltage reading stays adjusted AFTER you
screw the sensor bolts tight.
Release the throttle valve and open and close the throttle 10
times.
Carefully close the throttle valve again with your finger and
recheck the reading.
Continue the process until you get a consistent result.
HTML http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u195/Elponkin/TuneECU/d_zps0eca926e.jpg
5. Next check that the upper voltage value returns to 0.70-0.74V
when you are NOT pressing the throttle valve to the closed
position. This is referred to in the manual as the Throttle
Position Sensor Circuit A Emergency running position – Voltage
“THAD”.
Release the throttle valve and open and close the throttle 10
times.
If the value is incorrect you need to adjust as follows:
Locate the adjustment point on the RH side of the throttlebody.
HTML http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u195/Elponkin/TuneECU/e_zps83eb8596.jpg
You need to unscrew the cap (item 4 - it is called the fuse
cover in the manual) it is held on with varnish so can be tight
and difficult to remove. Once removed it will reveal the
adjustment screw and locknut.
HTML http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u195/Elponkin/TuneECU/f_zps47c53f23.jpg
Loosen the nut (item 5) and adjust the voltage with screw (item
6).
I found the manual guide not working for me since the top fuse
cap was glued on to screw no.6 and nut no.5 was glued so hard to
screw no.6 that I needed to take it out completely and use some
method to hold screw no.6 while I turn nut no.5.
Also you need to ensure the screw is making contact with the
throttle valve so turn it until you see a change in voltage and
then back it off until you achieve the correct value.
Once you get this top voltage reading to 0.70-0.74V recheck the
value after opening and closing the throttle 10 times until you
get consistent results. Refit the cap.
6. Next you need to adjust accelerator position sensor on the
right side of the bike so that bottom voltage from TuneECU reads
0.70-0.74V this is called the Throttle Grip Sensor – Voltage
“APAD”.
HTML http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u195/Elponkin/TuneECU/g_zps3565dbaa.jpg
Its same procedure as the TPS only by using sensor on the right
hand side of the throttle body (opposite side from the TPS).
Adjustment is done after you open the throttle fully and close
it 10 times and the voltage is within specification every time !
HTML http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u195/Elponkin/TuneECU/h_zps6a068486.jpg
7. You need to turn the ignition off and back on, then wait
until it connects to TuneECU and check AGAIN if all 3 voltages
are in still within specification range.
Dont forget to do this after any sensors adjustment!
#Post#: 292--------------------------------------------------
690 Enduro EFI -- Idiot's Guide link (part V)
By: Rusty Shovel Date: February 13, 2014, 9:31 am
---------------------------------------------------------
Chapter 8
Stories
A success story on loading maps
This morning, I have installed the Evo 1 Airbox Lid, £21 from
KTM dealer and mapped the bike with the KM765EU11B0232 maps
using TuneECU, did the 15min idle initialisation run, turned off
ignition, TPS reset, slowly open throttle to 100% and then
slowly back down, I did this twice just in case and switch off
the bike. During the 15min idle procedure, I even noticed the
idle is much better than with standard Akra maps, you get this
erratic idling when you start the bike, but with these maps,
much better. Idle seems to be around 1650 after the 15mins idle
procedure, blipped the throttle in neutral and 1st gear, no
stalling so far. Went for a quick ride ... what a difference,
it's a new bike, the Akra pipe even sounds better, especially
when accelerating hard (front wheel also lifts, idle revs are
constant ...
Throttle adjustment story
Sourced from:
Post #144
HTML http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=685657&page=10
HTML http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=685657&page=10
A couple important notes that I've learned that solved my
stalling issues (knock on wood), for now anyway.
When adjusting the second voltage value in TuneEcu (upper
voltage value 0.70~.74, butterfly not pressed closed), you
adjust it by way of the nut/stud throttle stop adjuster. This is
the stud that physically stops the movement of the butterfly
when you let the throttle go back to its zero state. In my case,
I was getting a voltage within range BUT, and this is a very
important BUT... the adjuster stud was not resting against the
butterfly stop. I believe this is the reason for my erratic
idling, stalling and intermittent low end issues over all. Since
the butterfly was not physically resting up against the adjuster
stud, once running, it would physically bounce around ever so
slightly causing stalling and other weird intermittent issues
yet when checked with TuneEcu, was still in spec. So when
adjusting this, make sure you screw the adjuster stud in far
enough to see the voltage change a few hundredths of a volt,
then as your backing it out again, watch the point at which the
voltage no longer changes. If the voltage is no longer changing,
the adjuster stud is no longer in contact with the butterfly
stop. After doing this a few times you can actually feel when it
makes contact. It needs to make contact. Having the throttle
cables out of adjustment may also affect this.
Something else I ended up doing was adjusting all the voltage
levels and then immediately firing it up. I only did the
throttle calibration and did not plug in the air box or do the
15 min reset. I'd then see how it idled, test the response, and
do quick blips to try and make it stall etc etc. Then once I was
content, I waited overnight for a cold start & did the 15 min
idle reset. This saved me lots of 15 min idle cycles while I was
learning by trial and error as initially I tried many different
voltage combinations, all within the allowable spec but just a
bit different within the range. In my experience if it stalled
before the idle reset, it would also stall after the idle reset.
Bonus 15-Minute Idle Info!
15 min idle stripped bare
Sourced from Inmate AMa as follows:
HTML http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....&postcount=304
HTML http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....&postcount=304
Quoted from Wunderfest thead:
Quote:
Originally Posted by sprouty115
Just got back from my dealer. For $39, he loaded the "...233"
map and did an abbreviated idle reset adaptation. Basically
pushed the bike outside, started it up and let it idle until the
fan came on then said I was good to go. I was always under the
impression that it was supposed to be done with the engine cold?
I figured I'd just do it myself tomorrow morning unless I was
mistaken?
I have heard the same from few other sources. At least one of
them is also a KTM dealer. In that case, the customer was
advised to perform a longer idle next morning when the engine is
cold again.
Let's start from the KTM 690 Service Manual:
Initialization run is advised to do after two things; adjustment
of APAD and THAD voltages and ECU flashing (re-mapping). Both
include adaptations reset, APAD+THAD operation icludes "ECU
Reset" with diagnostics tool and flashing erases the adaptation
as the new map is installed.
"Start the engine and perform a initialization run. Guideline:
15 min."
Nothing about throttle calibration or stone cold engine. <- I
think this wisdom originates from here:
HTML http://www.monomaniacs.nl/tnt/KTM-69...hrottle-issues
HTML http://www.monomaniacs.nl/tnt/KTM-69...hrottle-issues
"2. Idle reset procedure
The 'famous' 15 minute idle reset procedure. This resets the
adaptive base values of the ECU. It won't transform the bike but
it can make a worthwhile improvement. It is very important that
the engine is stone cold. One or two hours after riding is not
enough! Do this after the bike has been off for a full night or
day. Start the engine and let it idle for 15 minutes without
touching anything. After 15 minutes, switch the engine off with
the ignition key. Done. During this procedure you won't see or
hear anything happening besides the idling and (probably) the
fan. Don't worry, the reset is done. Besides after certain
maintenance or parts replacement, you could consider doing it
twice a year with the turning of the seasons. A reset for the
colder autumn & winter period and one time for warmer conditions
during spring & summer. This is not mandatory or needed and
don't expect miracles."
Where does this come from? Maybe one possibility is KTM 990
initialization. From Tune ECU website:
"990cc models SD, SM, and Adventure:
After download from an new map, you must perform an
initialization run.
The 990s must be on the center stand, and are thus stand
vertically. For SD / SM models use a Paddock
Stands or the side stand with a piece of wood underneath.
The engine must be cold.
There should be the coolest possible air temperature outside,
this can be very helpful for a lower fuel consumption.
Start the engine and let it run at idle for 15 minutes. During
these 15 minutes, not use the throttle or any other functions.
The 15 minutes need to be strictly adhered to, and must not fall
below. The time can only be exceeded by
a maximum of one minute.
Should the engine go out, then re-start ONLY, do not begin 15
minutes again. (Source: German KTM Forum)
If you want to perform an initialization run only, you must
first reset in any case the adaptation.
(Source: LC8 German KTM Forum)"
Sounds familiar to me. These are the guidelines that come up in
many KTM sites now and then when discussing KTM 690 15 min idle
also.
What does the ECU do during 15 min idle?
It is advised to do after ECU adaptations reset. Clearly the ECU
has to adapt to something and I think that it has something to
do with intake air temperature (IAT), manifold abolute pressure
(MAP), amount of RPM and lambda voltage. Engine's suction and
exhaust pressure are changed when hardware has been changed and
so is engine's volumetric efficiency (VE) which has a lot to do
with the injection pulse width. During the 15 min ECU adjusts
injection pulse width and ignition advance as the IAT rises. I
think that the ECU is aiming to a leanest possible mix that
gives constant idle and is "learning" the right pulse width and
ignition advance to whole IAT/coolant temp range. Or adapting to
conditions, which are changed after hardware modding. If this is
so, the 15 min is not needed for a new map per se, it is needed
because the new map has no valid adaptations for current
hardware. Also, then 15 min is important every time when
hardware has been changed. For example a airbox cover removal or
slip-on installation.
What I have experienced:
I have done 15 mins to stone cold, warm and hot engine, maybe 20
to 30 times after re-mapping my bike. Most of the times it has
been done stone cold. I have never accomplished to get solid 15
min to warm or hot engine without stalling. Of course it is just
my bike, I'm not saying it is impossible. There can always be
something else. Also, when 15 min ends prematurely to stall, my
bike has always had poor idle and driveability at low rpm. Once
the 15 min has been done by dealer, warm engine, stalling and
poor idling. The advise was "Well, maybe it gets better with
time" .....
Conclusion:
I will do the 15 min initialization to stone cold just to be
sure. It won't harm anything and I like to keep the loose ends
out of the equation.
#Post#: 3328--------------------------------------------------
Re: 690 Enduro EFI -- Idiot's Guide link (part I)
By: Dirk Diggler Date: December 19, 2015, 1:08 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
That YouTube video of TuneECU on the Tiger 1050 is me ;D
Looking forward to getting into the ECU on the KTM next...
*****************************************************