DIR Return Create A Forum - Home
---------------------------------------------------------
690 Enduro R
HTML https://690enduro.createaforum.com
---------------------------------------------------------
*****************************************************
DIR Return to: Sprockets and Chains
*****************************************************
#Post#: 2817--------------------------------------------------
optimal gearing
By: brian68 Date: May 10, 2015, 3:00 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
been debating on gearing options. comparing actual speeds vs
gearing calculator. I find that i run about 104-108 , in 6th to
about 108 then slow after that . so i think by going to a 48
rear i won't lose any top speed since i will be able to rev
higher and pull the weight better. (my 260 lbs doesn't help)
And is it just me or when in map 2 yes it hits harder down low
but loses up top. slower 8000-9000. map 3 smoother but rev's to
9000 easier? btw 2014 model
#Post#: 3129--------------------------------------------------
Re: optimal gearing
By: brian68 Date: September 6, 2015, 10:29 am
---------------------------------------------------------
well i ended up with a 48t rear. which is equal to one tooth
smaller in the front. I find it nice for offroad riding, but did
not like it on the street. The motor did not seem to rev faster
, or it did just not as much as i thought it should. it acts
like it has a heavy flywheel, or that the ecu limits the motor.
I have heard alot of people complain about 690's having a light
flywheel which causes them to stall easy. I looked up the part #
and indeed pre 14's do have a different part # . So ktm took the
easy way out . If it is a combination of flywheel/ecu then i
would think that gearing it faster . like a duke will make the
bike faster. Down the road i will have to pick up a older
flywheel and compare them hopefully they are interchangeable, if
not maybe that is the reason for the different part #. anyone
have an older 690 and a newer one 2014-2015. if so what do you
think? i know it will be a hard comparison since the new ones
make more power. any thoughts?
#Post#: 3132--------------------------------------------------
Re: optimal gearing
By: ShakeWell Date: September 7, 2015, 11:42 am
---------------------------------------------------------
I'm currently running 14/46 and it's working well for me. Within
an hour from my driveway are a variety of terrain options;
single/double track, FSR, graded roads, gravel and open desert.
I can hold 75mph at around 6k and topped out at 104 (speedo
indicated) on the dry lake bed at El Mirage while 1st/2nd are
better for technical stuff than when the bike was delivered.
As far as your advanced setting going flat at the higher rpm's,
have you replaced the stock exhaust yet? My choice ended up
being the header and slip-on from FMF and after a 15min idle
reset, the bike pulls to the redline in 6th with no problem and
no noticeable dip in power.
One added note, when I swapped the counter shaft sprocket to the
14, I went with a regular sprocket vs the rubberized version and
the chain lash/noise is noticable. I'll be ordering a 14 with
the rubber cushioning with my next parts purchase.
#Post#: 3230--------------------------------------------------
Re: optimal gearing
By: thedubsack85 Date: October 21, 2015, 12:26 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
oops wrong post. my bad
#Post#: 3235--------------------------------------------------
Re: optimal gearing
By: SLAP75 Date: October 24, 2015, 1:04 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
So has anyone found a rubber dampened 14t countershaft sprocket
like the stock 15t? does the non dampened one make much more
noise? i want to swap mine out, but not sure i want to hear
more clanging than i do already.
#Post#: 3238--------------------------------------------------
Re: optimal gearing
By: Philip Pino Date: October 25, 2015, 4:35 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
From what I've been able to find, the rubber damped sprockets
are made for the bikes which will be used on the street. The 14
tooth sprocket is deemed to low of gearing for street use and
therefore used primarily on off-road bikes where you wouldn't
notice the extra noise and vibration.
#Post#: 3239--------------------------------------------------
Re: optimal gearing
By: truck11 Date: October 26, 2015, 9:23 am
---------------------------------------------------------
I run 14t on the front with no issues or noticeable/annoying
noise. 'almost' want to try a 13t
#Post#: 3240--------------------------------------------------
Re: optimal gearing
By: SLAP75 Date: October 26, 2015, 2:10 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
cool deal, i'm going to try the 14t then. if it's not enough
i'll throw a 46 on the rear. thanks for the replies.
also, what does the 14 do to the speedometer? will i need to
re-calibrate?
#Post#: 3241--------------------------------------------------
Re: optimal gearing
By: truck11 Date: October 26, 2015, 2:19 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
Does nothing with the speedometer - that is driven by the tires.
So, if you change your tire size, say to a 17 SM size, then you
need to mess with Speedometer.
What the 14t gear will do is change your RPM's (at given speed),
shift points and MPG's etc. You will loose top end speed, but
nothing too noticeable, unless you do A LOT of highway.
I would stick with 15t if doing highway to gain back MPG's.
#Post#: 3242--------------------------------------------------
Re: optimal gearing
By: SLAP75 Date: October 26, 2015, 3:14 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
[quote author=truck11 link=topic=511.msg3241#msg3241
date=1445887184]
Does nothing with the speedometer - that is driven by the tires.
So, if you change your tire size, say to a 17 SM size, then you
need to mess with Speedometer.
What the 14t gear will do is change your RPM's (at given speed),
shift points and MPG's etc. You will loose top end speed, but
nothing too noticeable, unless you do A LOT of highway.
I would stick with 15t if doing highway to gain back MPG's.
[/quote]
Perfect... don't care about top end at all. i do mainly around
town and local canyon runs. no commuting on this thing at all, i
live a half mile from work :D
i'm just looking for it to have a bit more bottom end and be
able to lift the front end a little easier. i currently also
ride a 2014 RMZ450 on tracks, the 690 just feels weak compared.
i know its the gearing... the wings exhaust helped a bit too,
worth the price of admission for the sound alone...
thanks for the reply. i was hoping that was the answer
*****************************************************