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#Post#: 2648--------------------------------------------------
Re: Rekluse EXP 3.0 clutch for the 690
DIR By: Guymcfly
Date: April 12, 2015, 9:27 am
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Please do us all a favor and do a big write up. I get the
impression a lot of riders are interested (and not just the
washed up busted up sort like me)!😳
#Post#: 2687--------------------------------------------------
Re: Rekluse EXP 3.0 clutch for the 690
DIR By: ShakeWell
Date: April 15, 2015, 2:22 pm
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Big brown truck dropped this off and I thought you guys might
like to see what you get with the Rekluse:
[URL=
HTML http://s292.photobucket.com/user/xShakeWellx/media/2014%20690R%20Enduro/Engine%20Mods/Rekluse_zpsy7ler0ez.jpg.html][IMG]http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm16/xShakeWellx/2014%20690R%20Enduro/Engine%20Mods/Rekluse_zpsy7ler0ez.jpg[/img][/URL]
I'll put this on is a couple weeks as I just buttoned the bike
back together from a few mods and have some riding to do before
taking her apart again. I'll take some pics and write it up when
the clutch goes in.
#Post#: 2726--------------------------------------------------
Re: Rekluse EXP 3.0 clutch for the 690
DIR By: Guymcfly
Date: April 22, 2015, 8:03 am
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I am really looking forward to this report!
#Post#: 2802--------------------------------------------------
Re: Rekluse EXP 3.0 clutch for the 690
DIR By: okent
Date: May 8, 2015, 12:22 am
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I have a rekluse clutch and left hand rear brake lever installed
on a KTM 250 xcf-w and really like it.
I am waiting on a 690 enduro r to come in this month and the
clutch will be my first mod. I just don't see a downside to it
except the money
I do a lot of single track tight stuff so its really of value
for me.
I will post an update here unless someone beats me to it. I'm
also trying to locate or work up a left hand rear brake for this
bike as well.
#Post#: 2813--------------------------------------------------
Re: Rekluse EXP 3.0 clutch for the 690
DIR By: Philip Pino
Date: May 9, 2015, 6:22 pm
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Installed my clutch a few days ago. What a difference. Since
I'm one of the vertically challenged riders, 30" inseam, I no
longer have to worry so much about juggling between rear brake,
gear lever, clutch etc when coming to a stop. Just down shift
into 1st like normal, let out the clutch and wait for the stop
light to turn green. Hit the gas and away you go. This has
been especially helpful a some of the longer lights in my area,
where you don't want to stay in gear with the clutch in for a
long period of time. I have noticed that down shifting into 2nd
and 1st gear is a bit stiffer. Hopefully it will ease up once I
have more miles on the new setup.
Sorry I don't have pictures of the install in progress. Rekluse
has a professional install video for the 690 on Youtube. There
is a short-cut you can take when installing this clutch. The
instructions and video have you removing the inner-clutch hub
from the crank shaft. This is not necessary. Rekluse has you
do this so you can see the indexing arrow on the back side of
the inner-clutch hub when assembling the clutch pack. However
there is a notch on the inside of the inner-clutch hub which
corresponds with the indexing arrow on the back side. If you
watch the video, the mechanic doing the work, points to the
notch. The notch has to be lined up with the indexing arrow on
the outer-clutch hub.
On the adjustable clutch slave cylinder, included with the kit,
Rekluse uses a minimal amount of grease to hold a little ball
bearing in place. I added more grease to hold-in the ball
bearing to the slave cylinder when installing it on to the bike.
After it fell out a couple of times during the install.
Rekluse has you adjusting the "free-play gain" of the clutch by
feel or with the supplied rubber band. The rubber band was a
pain to install and pulled in on the clutch lever too much. So
I did it by feel. Watch the video and they even explain that
its easier to do by feel. The instructions and video say the
minimum free-play is 1/8" or 3mm. I had some trouble getting a
consistent measurement. After talking with Rekluse tech support
they said, 1/8" to 1/4" is what you are looking for, 1/16" is
minimum. Also, you have be sure to "blip the throttle"
consistantly. Their tech said to go to "wfo" when blipping the
throttle. The rpm's have to be around 5k to get the proper
reading. Also don't get dyslexic like I did and turn the
adjuster screw the wrong way. Once I found my mistake all went
well.
You can still bump start the bike if needed by backing-out the
adjuster screw on the slave cylinder until you see the o-ring on
the adjuster screw. Just remember where you original setting
was and check the free-play adjustment to make sure you are back
where you need to be before you ride off.
I'll post again after I get some trail time on the clutch.
#Post#: 2819--------------------------------------------------
Re: Rekluse EXP 3.0 clutch for the 690
DIR By: Guymcfly
Date: May 10, 2015, 9:03 pm
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Thanx for taking the time to write this up. Looking forward to
your trail riding report.
#Post#: 2871--------------------------------------------------
Re: Rekluse EXP 3.0 clutch for the 690
DIR By: Freedom
Date: May 31, 2015, 10:32 pm
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Hi all just a quick note. I just got the Rekluse for my 15 from
BRAP Off Road, $700.00 delivered. One week time frame. Looking
forward to the results since I am 5'9" with 29 inseam.
#Post#: 2879--------------------------------------------------
Re: Rekluse EXP 3.0 clutch for the 690
DIR By: Philip Pino
Date: June 3, 2015, 5:08 pm
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Freedom, I too have a short inseam and tip-toe at stops. The
clutch reduces the work load at stops, especially in SoCal
traffic. You can come to a complete stop in sixth gear, and
without pulling in the clutch or rocking the bike back and
forth, you can just downshift to second or first.
Sorry guys, still haven't had the chance to hit the trails. But
here's a little update. I did notice an increased difficulty or
stiffness when downshifting, after I set the proper free play
gain. Rekluse said to keep turning the slave cylinder adjuster
in (clockwise) a 1/2 a tic mark until the stiffness goes away.
Also, it's okay to have the adjuster turned in all the way, so
long as there is the minimum free play gain of 1/16".
The clutch is great on the street. I can choose to start in
first or second gear from a standstill. Second gear starts are
smoother than first gear because of the reduced torque from
being up one gear. You do loose engine braking below about 2500
rpm. Thats where the clutch disengages when decelerating. Even
if you downshift and your rpm's stay at or below this threshold,
there is no engine braking. This is a good note for maneuvering
on down hill sections of trails and what not. You'll need to
use the brakes more. If you need to feather the clutch to
maneuver around in tight quarters or around/over obstacles you
still can. I've done so in my driveway and when filtering
traffic at stop lights.
Just be sure to consciously switch your thinking when you get
back on a bike without a Rekluse auto clutch.
#Post#: 2992--------------------------------------------------
Re: Rekluse EXP 3.0 clutch for the 690
DIR By: Philip Pino
Date: July 15, 2015, 6:54 pm
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This is an update on the Rekluse Clutch. Over the 4th of July
weekend I rode from Oceanside, CA to Moab, UT. The clutch
performed flawlessly. I finally got a chance to test it out off
road. My buddy and I took a trail just before the trail head for
the Valley of The Gods. The trail we hit had a good mix of
terrain, sand, loose dry dirt, not quite "baby-head" rocks, and
slick rock. I now have a new respect for those who ride in
sand. I'm glad I left a lot of my camping gear at home and was
on a 690 and not my friends loaded down 1190R Adv. I could
easily pick up my bike without help. I really wanted to tell my
buddy that he was on his own for picking up his bike out of the
sand.
Anyhow, the Rekluse allowed me to concentrate on just riding the
bike. I could forget about the clutch. If you go down on the
left side the bike will keep running, but not if you go down on
the right side. I think the Rekluse engages slightly, when the
bike is laying on its right side, and stalls the engine. I
mentioned in a previous post that you lose all engine breaking
when the rpm's drop to around 2k and the Rekluse disengages. I
found that you can get back the engine braking by just blipping
the throttle (with the clutch lever out) to reengage the
Rekluse.
The Rekluse should save you from frying your clutch if you get
into areas where you would be doing a lot of clutch feathering.
On a side note. I had the center-plate on the clutch cover,
blow-out after my fourth get off on this trail. I think this
was due to a build up of crankcase pressure and oil filling the
crankcase breather hose. The preassure had to go somewhere and
I think this is a built in safety from KTM. If this happens to
you, don't forget to also look for the rubber ring which holds
the plate in place.
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