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#Post#: 998--------------------------------------------------
Water Crossing
By: Rusty Shovel Date: May 9, 2014, 2:04 pm
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I found an interesting site, rideadv.com:
HTML http://www.rideadv.com/?__hstc=43953530.c475d4199e37418a3511b7017915ba93.1374438381427.1374438381427.1374438381427.1&__hssc=43953530.1.1374438381428
I'm surprised I haven't come across this site before now. If
you've got some time to kill, it's worth a perusal.
HTML http://youtu.be/Huj2ObSxlMw
How to Do Water Crossings on a Motorcycle: 7 Important Points
Posted by Eric Lange on Thu, Oct 24, 2013 @ 06:56 PM
Maybe you've done water crossings before, or your luck as an
adventure rider has yet to produce the opportunity. Whatever the
case, there are at least 7 important points to consider before
you go riding through any river, stream, puddle, or whatever you
come across! Please take advantage of the notes below, or the
video review on this link.
7 Important Things to Consider
1) Let Your Bike Cool Down, First!
We've all heard the warnings and perhaps some of you have even
seen it happen: Cold water hitting extremely hot metal could
result in damage or cracking motorcycle parts.
This being said, it's best to let your engine and other
motorcycle parts cool down just a bit before entering extremely
cold water. Brake rotors on cars are well-known for warping
after hitting cold puddles, so it's fair to say the same
reaction could take place with a motorcycle brake discs. If you
hurried up to a cold glacier-fed water crossing and suddenly hit
the brakes, or perhaps let your engine idle for a few minutes
while contemplating the decision to cross, it's best to wait
until a more "moderate" difference in temperatures exists
between said parts and the water. Although it's rare or unlikely
to sustain damage from such an encounter, it is a possibility.
2) Check How Deep the Water Is
From a distance or certain angles, you might not be able to know
just how deep a body of water is. That being said, it's best to
get off the bike, walk out into the water, and determine just
how deep or "unforgiving" your projected path of travel is. We
take risks every day as motorcycle riders, and some risks like
water crossings tend to stress the financial side of things more
than safety concerns. See how the depth of the water relates to
Point #4 just ahead!
3) Consider the Strength of the Water Current
If it's a large, standing puddle of non-moving, this doesn't
apply; but a strongly flowing river crossing is an entirely
different situation. Have a good look and do what you can to
feel the current before riding out into it. Then imagine the
incredible power that water (at over 8lbs/3kg per gallon) would
have as it's slamming into the side of your motorcycle. Would
you be able to keep the bike upright against that force? Also
keep in mind that if you have to lean your bike into the current
in order to stay upright, the current will be "lifting" your
bike slightly, lessening your traction and contact with the
ground. On top of what might already be a slippery surface under
the water, and one where your feet could slip as well, try to
determine in advance if crossing such extreme current is
realistic or not.
4) Know Where Your Air Intake Is
Even the BMW R1200GS, the longtime title holder of "world's most
popular adventure bike" doesn't offer much in terms of how deep
water can be before reaching the air intake point (until the
2013 model year when the Liquid Cooled version of the boxer
engine also meant BMW also raised the air intake point.) The
point is, you should know for sure where the point is that your
engine breathes from, as submerging the motorcycle in water up
to that point will not be a good idea. (Hopefully we don't have
to explain that engines don't stay running if they're gulping
water. Photo above/right shows how Ian's engine was choking
after just brushing the top of the river in Patagonia.)
5) Choose: Sitting vs. Standing Position
As is covered in our Free Whitepaper Download about Sitting vs.
Standing while riding, there are Pro's and Con's to both
positions during water crossings as well. When seated, you'll be
able to tap the ground with your feet if you need to regain
balance, but your visibility of what lies ahead isn't as good as
when you're standing. Then again, what if you're riding along in
the standing position and don't see a log hidden under the water
at a 45-degree angle from which you're traveling? Even at a mere
2-3 mph, it's quite unlikely you'll be able to keep from falling
(unless you were able to tap your foot down to maintain
balance.) Again, keep in mind the Pro's and Con's of both riding
positions, and don't just think about what looks cool for the
camera!
6) Clear Your Engine Carefully If Needed
Did your bike end up in the water? Don't feel bad, you're
probably not alone.
If your engine stopped running and there's even a chance your
engine's combustion chamber(s) consumed any water, don't just
push the button and try to start it right away as you could
destroy your engine. What's known as "hydrolock" means you've
got a significant amount of water above the pistons, (in the
combustion chambers) and you'll want to clear that water out
safely before cranking the engine over with your electric start.
Take the spark plug(s) out, put the motorcycle in gear, and
rotate the rear wheel by either pushing the bike or spinning it
by hand. You'll see water spraying out the spark plug holes as
the engine turns through its cycle, and after a good 10-15
cycles, it should be ready to reassemble and run again. (Be sure
that your airbox is empty as well!) You'll want to inspect your
oil situation at the same time. Is it white and "milky?" That
means water got mixed in with the oil, and should be changed
immediately, or at least as soon as possible.
7) Check Your Brake Fluid & Pump Your Brakes
It's quite unlikely that water would get into your brake lines
or reservoirs, but still a good idea to be aware of this
possibility before proceding. In short, do an entire brake
system inspection and make sure proper pressure is still
applicable through your hand and foot levers before proceeding.
Much the same, be sure to pump the brakes and dry-off the brake
pads and calipers a bit, as water can obviously keep your brakes
from functioning 100%. So don't just pull out into traffic
without checking your brakes!
As always, be sure to check our "Free Motorcycle Travel Info"
page on www.rideadv.com, download anything that will help you
and your adventure travel plans, and let us know when we can
help make your motorcycle travel wishes a reality!
#Post#: 999--------------------------------------------------
Re: Water Crossing
By: Rusty Shovel Date: May 9, 2014, 2:25 pm
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Oh yeah, three tips:
1) Once the plug is removed, it's difficult to turn the tire by
hand fast enough to eject all the water. If there's a handy
hill nearby, coasting down in-gear, will do a much better job.
Unfortunately, water has a habit of pooling below hills, so you
may have some pushing/towing to do. Obviously, you'll need a
relatively solid surface or you'll just skid the whole way down.
2) Unless the spark plug is BONE-DRY when you reinsert it, the
bike WILL NOT start. Either let the plug sit out in the sun
while you drain your engine, or if you're impatient, use a
lighter.
3) None of this is guaranteed to work, so be sure to scout the
river well and have a back-up plan if things go pear-shaped. If
you're 100 miles from anywhere and you're riding solo,
discretion is the better part of valor.
#Post#: 3298--------------------------------------------------
Re: Water Crossing
By: truck11 Date: December 2, 2015, 4:01 pm
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The dualsport event I do every June in central PA has a famous
water crossing. Damn kids damn it up and every year it gets
deeper & deeper. I dumped my DRZ400 back in 2007 and it never
ran right again! I did everything to get it dry before cranking
it. Got home and changed the milkshake oil! Here is a clip
of what the crossing looks like and is early in the day before
the main group of 400+ riders comes through (Water is clear in
this clip) I now hate water crossing!
HTML https://youtu.be/WEBnXzoXw50
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