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#Post#: 758--------------------------------------------------
Garmin AMPS Rugged Mount Install
By: Rusty Shovel Date: April 12, 2014, 2:07 am
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Hey all,
I had this same mount on my last bike and it was great. It only
works with the Garmin Montana and Monterra. The mount is light,
durable, and allows the GPS to charge even while raining. It's
also easy to remove the GPS and take with you (which I always
do; I have trust issues).
[img]
HTML https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-8yg_HkJk5uA/U0jDiggnWFI/AAAAAAAAA_w/oGUfpHKflhQ/w1151-h863-no/DSCN5640.JPG[/img]
A great thing KTM did with the 690 Enduro is supply two powered
and fused leads behind the headlight. They certainly didn't
have to do that, but I'm glad they did. I don't like to have
the battery cluttered with cables. KTM even pre-terminated the
cables with female spade-type connectors! That's really going
above and beyond. Stay classy KTM!
Trouble is, I was a little intimidated at the prospect of
removing the headlight. I shouldn't have been. It's
easy-peasy. Two bolts and a cable disconnect and...voila! It
comes right off!
[img]
HTML https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-za3it-tk0oE/U0jDdICDi-I/AAAAAAAAA_Q/gcWdUf1jzdE/w1151-h863-no/DSCN5637.JPG[/img]
A couple of things: First, the manual suggests you lay a cloth
over the front fender so the light can lay atop it while you
disconnect the headlight cable. That's a helpful insight.
Second, my manual says to disconnect the headlight AND turn
signal cables. I discovered however, that on the 2014 model,
the turn signal cables are not connected the headlight at all.
So the headlight cable is all that needs disconnecting. The
quick disconnect for the headlight is a simple "pinch and pull"
operation. It'll be obvious when you see it.
My next fear was that I'd pop the headlight off, and a spaghetti
nest of cables would shoot out at me, never again to be tamed or
pushed back into their vacuum-packed state. Instead, I was
pleasantly surprised; there really isn't a lot going on back
there.
[img]
HTML https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-KCE64MsHnTQ/U0jDd_htz0I/AAAAAAAAA_c/ExSFLHCLF-w/w1151-h863-no/DSCN5636.JPG[/img]
Another View:
[img]
HTML https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_mxPr7wBwlM/U0jDhKgnEFI/AAAAAAAAA_k/6XjpMaQow5o/w1151-h863-no/DSCN5638.JPG[/img]
There are really only three bundles of zip-tied cables. The
topmost bundle are the turn signal cables; no need to mess with
those. The middle bundle runs big, important-looking cables
down into the bike's bowels; again, just leave them be.
It's the bundle to the lower right that needs be dealt with.
HTML http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SQTlAg55Pyg/Ux1r9B1M8AI/AAAAAAAACJA/im3meOD78YE/s1600/batch2+(9).jpg
The bundle is not only zip-tied, it's zip-tied to the bike
itself. In the photo below you can see how the zip-tie is
threaded through the backside of the headlight housing.
HTML https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-vabH2P74kzE/U0jD1hAmI_I/AAAAAAAABBE/DO0H_k6eTPQ/w647-h863-no/DSCN5650.jpg
Cut the zip tie and pull out the bundle. Sure, you could try to
work around the zip-tie, but why? It's a lot easier to have
room to work and you can bundle it back up with a new zip tie
when you're done. The number of wires is refreshingly
manageable. There are three wires, each with a positive and
negative connection. One the the wires is obviously being used
for something. The other two are helpfully labeled "ACC1" and
"ACC2." I didn't take the photo below (I found it on ADV) but
it's a good depiction of what the label looks like:
HTML http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_rZQJFj3OUU/Ux1r825EdOI/AAAAAAAACI8/rGIna8i-Wgw/s1600/batch2+%25287%2529.jpg
At this point I had a choice, did I want constant power (even
with the key off) as offered by ACC1? Or would I rather the GPS
was "switched" to only have power when the key was turned to on,
as offered by ACC2? I chose to run the GPS on ACC1. I don't
want the GPS to have to start up each time I turn off the key, I
never intend to leave my GPS on the bike when I'm not on it, and
a GPS has a very low power draw. I'd rather reserve ACC2 for
big power items, such as auxiliary lighting or heated grips--the
kinds of things that are easy to forget (and murder your
battery).
Now that everything's out, I need to ensure I don't electrocute
myself. The fuse box is located under the seat behind a rubber
cap.
[img]
HTML https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-xvOsYImRcDw/U0jDnwFZiCI/AAAAAAAABAA/gUxllzoF8_Y/w1151-h863-no/DSCN5641.JPG[/img]
Here's where you NEED to make sure you are reading the manual
for YOUR bike. The fuses for ACC 1&2 have moved around. For
2014 ACC1&2 are assigned to fuses 7&8. In other years it's been
assigned to other fuse locations.
[img]
HTML https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-121gtHEIIOw/U0jDix8Um1I/AAAAAAAAA_0/0j794buwXsw/w1151-h863-no/DSCN5639.JPG[/img]
Just to be sure, once I popped fuse#7 I used an electric line
tester to make sure ACC1 was cold (it was). Good, all safe.
The AMPS mount's cables are bare wires--you'll need to attach
male spade connectors. I went to an auto parts store and took a
wild guess at the size. Turns out, my guess was spot on: 22-18
gauge 1/4" male disconnects fit like a glove. In the photo
below I've already crimped one of them on my negative line.
[img]
HTML https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-trseOobA76E/U0jDoAAf4UI/AAAAAAAABAE/yd8YFKImT-c/w1151-h863-no/DSCN5642.JPG[/img]
But before I continue I must vent: why would Garmin think so
many wires are a good idea? I'm the sort who gets angry at the
television remote's many buttons. Here, the AMPS mount has
six(!) wires. The first unnecessary cable to go was the audio
cable--snip and wrap!
[img]
HTML https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7ygOv-xux1M/U0jDymOQt2I/AAAAAAAABAs/JAivnsY15Y0/w1151-h863-no/DSCN5647.JPG[/img]
[img]
HTML https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nN806vQXAyY/U0jDzxj1X0I/AAAAAAAABA8/l4N6TLhnp4A/w1151-h863-no/DSCN5648.JPG[/img]
Next, the AUXinput cables (blue, yellow, and green) get tucked
away (no pic). I just electrical taped them to the main cable.
Once I get both the black and red wires crimped with new spade
connectors, I connected them to the ACC1 leads. The brown wire
is the neg/ground cable, plug the black wire here. The ACC1
positive cable is two-toned (red and another color--yellow, I
think), attach the red AMPS cable.
Time to test things! I popped in the fuse. No drama! The GPS
turned on and began charging. I turned the key and the bike
functioned normally. Hooray.
[img]
HTML https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-VfUZjOu5Kr0/U0jDuUKA0NI/AAAAAAAABAg/zD4vqW45WBw/w1151-h863-no/DSCN5644.JPG[/img]
**A note on mounts: The AMPS Mount doesn't come with a mount
(LOL). It's predrilled to be used with Ram Mounts. I like the
Ram Mounts because they are simple, durable, and always seem to
wiggle out of harm's way when I crash. I also like that I can
get longer or shorter "arms" to suit my purpose. I like to be
able to see my GPS while driving, so I use the 6" inch arm to
get it out there where I can see both it AND the road/trail.
Time to run cables. Making sure I'd left enough slack to adjust
the height of the GPS, I zip-tied the cable to other cables
running behind under the speedometer.
[img]
HTML https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-oU_iOVfka28/U0jDukhXfHI/AAAAAAAABAk/Nsx-a9fs6yw/w1151-h863-no/DSCN5645.JPG[/img]
[img]
HTML https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--_hlDXu8blo/U0jDuDHckGI/AAAAAAAABAY/B6u0oOD63rs/w1151-h863-no/DSCN5646.JPG[/img]
It's a pretty tight fit. I had to tape the cable ends together
to push them through. I also had to remove the cap from the
inline fuse box to fit it through the narrow opening.
[img]
HTML https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-dUAKx6ALZ5M/U0jDztciBcI/AAAAAAAABA4/5zQU-_KlT-I/w1151-h863-no/DSCN5649.JPG[/img]
But here begins the most frustrating thing about the mount's
wiring. It's too long. It's designed to run all the way to the
battery, not 12" from the handlebar to headlight. Before I
began, I thought this wouldn't be a problem--I'd just cut to
fit, right? Wrong. The positive wire has an inline 2amp fuse
that is located at the far end of the cable. So I had to coil
and zip-tie the entire length of cable behind my headlight.
Like this:
[img]
HTML https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-U3MVwZIcOv4/U0jD2qSwZjI/AAAAAAAABBM/a0mosjNJEF4/w1151-h863-no/DSCN5651.JPG[/img]
Sure, it works. But there's something inelegant about having
that much unused cable crammed behind the headlight.
So now I have a question for those of you who know things: Could
I just cut the cable short and install the 2 amp fuse directly
into the KTM's fuse box (replacing the 10amp fuse already
there)? If you know, please impress me with your knowledge.
The additional wire behind the headlight made reinstallation a
bit tighter than I'd like. I had to enlist the aid of my son to
hold the light in place while I lined up the two mounting holes
on the headlight. Despite the tight fit, the headlight is
functioning properly (the angle of the beam is unchanged).
I'm glad to have a powered mount once again! But the next time
I go back there (to wire grips or my USB hub) , I'll shorten the
cable with weatherproof butt connectors (I didn't have any today
and didn't feel like going back to the auto parts store).
#Post#: 759--------------------------------------------------
Re: Garmin AMPS Rugged Mount Install
By: Dane1960 Date: April 12, 2014, 7:41 am
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Rusty, Those are just power and ground wires so you should be
fine with cutting them to the length you desire. I always
connect my GPS directly to the battery (just preference). I
always soldier connections together and use shrink sleeves on my
soldiered connections, not tape. I have a Garmin 665 with the
satellite antenna and the Touratech mount which I will be
installing soon.
Great write up and pictures!
#Post#: 763--------------------------------------------------
Re: Garmin AMPS Rugged Mount Install
By: Colorado Rider Date: April 12, 2014, 3:43 pm
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Awesome article rusty; better than what I would find in a
magazine; I'm sure I will be referring to it later! :o
#Post#: 764--------------------------------------------------
Re: Garmin AMPS Rugged Mount Install
By: mcnut Date: April 12, 2014, 5:30 pm
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I see no reason you can not swap the fuse, eliminating the
in-line one.
An alternative to coiling is a small space it feed it like a run
to the battery but the double back.
I know you said you like the 6" arm up like an antenna, just be
aware the arm length and how it's oriented will effect haw much
vibration the GPS experiences which can be extreme at times.
I have found with big singles running on washboard roads, the
shorter the better and perpendicular to the forks & position
movement the better.
For me that means the 2" arm parallel (more or less) to how a
crossbar would run keeps vibes to a minimum.
Bruce
#Post#: 3553--------------------------------------------------
Re: Garmin AMPS Rugged Mount Install
By: rastawheel Date: April 23, 2016, 11:14 am
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Great write up. Just what I needed to read, before doing this
exact same install. I will just cut my cable to length and by
pass the inline fuse, since the ACC connect is ran thru the fuse
box.
#Post#: 3556--------------------------------------------------
Re: Garmin AMPS Rugged Mount Install
By: rastawheel Date: April 23, 2016, 2:07 pm
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Just finished and it works great. Used the switched ACC for my
usb plug and the Non switched for my gps mount. I cut the cable
the right length, removing the inline fuse. One of the easiest
wiring's I ever did on a bike. Next will be the grip heaters.
#Post#: 3566--------------------------------------------------
Re: Garmin AMPS Rugged Mount Install
By: truck11 Date: April 25, 2016, 12:19 pm
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Great info - thanks for sharing and taking pics!
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