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#Post#: 19--------------------------------------------------
Tire Change Tutorial
By: Rusty Shovel Date: December 21, 2013, 9:23 pm
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Originally posted on ADV here:
HTML http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50717
HTML http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50717.
I copy
it here cause it's the best online tutorial I've found.
Congrats to Neduro for offering such clear advice!
Neduro's Tire Changing Class (Part 1)
It is a sad fact of life that motorcycle tires are a short lived
affair, especially the knobbly ones that so many of us enjoy
punishing in the dirt. During the summer, I change tires every
other week, or at most, every third week (either putting new
ones on or rotating old ones to utilize the sharp side of the
knob). Because I do it so much, I have gotten better at it than
I used to be, and I thought perhaps I could share that hard won
knowledge.
These pictures happen to have been taken changing dirt tires,
but the techniques shown here apply equally to street tires
(well, maybe not the bits about rim locks and tube positioning).
Later this week, I'll throw new tires on the GS and will
document that as well.
Tire changes are not difficult. In putting together this set of
directions, I changed both tires on my KTM at an unhurried pace,
including shooting 72 pictures which took lots of time to pose,
and including cleaning and greasing axles, checking brake pads,
and validating spoke tension, in 54 minutes from first picture
to last. I never used more than moderate force, did not break a
sweat, and no curses were uttered.
A few things to have in mind as you approach this project.
1)
stronger than the tire bead, and you don't want to be (broken
beads mean wasted tire). If things are not happening easily,
THINK about what forces you are putting on the tire and
reposition things to align those forces with what you are trying
to do. Like most things, tire changes are more a mental exercise
than a physical one.
2)
position or etc can make all the difference. Pay attention to
the subtleties of what you are doing. The single most important
thing to notice is that the profile of the rim has a dish, or a
low point, at the center where the spokes join. This dish is
your friend- if the bead of the tire is resting down in the
dish, it will be loose on the opposite side. If not, not even a
50 HP dirtbike can break it free.
3)
working. All of the tension that you are working around is
generated over there, not at the point where the tire iron is
contacting the tire.
Again, these same approaches will apply to street tires as well,
but I'll just focus on the pictures I have for now and worry
about the others later.
Tire Removal:
We'll assume, for a moment, that you are able to get your bike
situated so that the wheel in question is free, and are able to
remove it, and so we'll start with the wheel off the bike and go
from there.
I like to change tires using the new (or old) tire as a rest for
the work I'm doing. The primary reason for doing so is to keep
the sprockets and brake rotors off the floor and unbent. Lots of
companies make nifty stands, but I've never been able to justify
one given how well another tire works.
HTML http://neduro.smugmug.com/photos/7678022-M.jpg
Step 1: Let air out. Remove the valve stem all the way, so that
the tube can "breathe" as you change the volume of the tire
through your manipulations. Tip: loosen the valve stem nut, if
you have one, prior to letting the air out.
HTML http://neduro.smugmug.com/photos/7678048-M.jpg
Step 2: Loosen (but do not remove) Rim Lock. Once the nut is
loose, push the stem in to make sure that the rim lock has
released its grip on the tire carcass. You may need to hit the
stem with your socket hammer that you used to loosen the nut to
get it to let go.
HTML http://neduro.smugmug.com/photos/7678082-M.jpg
Step 3: Break the bead. On dirt tires, this is no big deal- I'm
doing it here with my chaco'd foot. I can also do it by hand, if
I feel like getting dirty. This is the biggest difference for
street tires; we'll get to that later. If you're feeling uppity,
turn the tire over and break the other side right now too, but
chances are good that it doesn't really matter, that it will
come free during your other manipulations anyway.
HTML http://neduro.smugmug.com/photos/7678096-M.jpg
Step 4: Insert 2 tire irons, 4-6” apart, 90 degrees off the
valve stem and/or rim lock. You don't want to go opposite the
stem or rim lock because then the bead can't seat all the way
into the dish of the rim. You don't want to be anywhere close to
them because they will make it harder to get the bead out. So,
split the difference.
HTML http://neduro.smugmug.com/photos/7678147-M.jpg
Step 5: Start working around tire away from initial "bite",
inserting tire irons close at first and farther as the bead gets
looser. Tip: if the tire is making it difficult to get the iron
inside the bead, insert the tire iron just out from where the
bead is crossing from outside to inside. It will be a very small
bite, but it will be easy to get the iron in.
HTML http://neduro.smugmug.com/photos/7678282-M.jpg
HTML http://neduro.smugmug.com/photos/7678509-M.jpg
Step 6: Continue to work all the way around the tire until one
whole side is off. Step on the middle of the rim and pull the
tube out, taking care to ease the valve stem out through the
hole in the rim.
HTML http://neduro.smugmug.com/photos/7678536-M.jpg
HTML http://neduro.smugmug.com/photos/7678541-M.jpg
Step 7: Flip rim and tire up to vertical, and insert tire iron
as shown to pull second side toward the same as the first. Use
the other iron to pull the bead off. Once you get about 1/4th of
the way around, you should be able to simply jerk the rim out of
the tire.
HTML http://neduro.smugmug.com/photos/7678564-M.jpg
HTML http://neduro.smugmug.com/photos/7678599-M.jpg
HTML http://neduro.smugmug.com/photos/7678635-M.jpg
HTML http://neduro.smugmug.com/photos/7678670-M.jpg
HTML http://neduro.smugmug.com/photos/7678687-M.jpg
Congratulations. You are now halfway through the project.
#Post#: 20--------------------------------------------------
Re: Tire Change Tutorial
By: Rusty Shovel Date: December 21, 2013, 9:31 pm
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Neduro's Tire Change Tutorial (Part Deux)
A few words before we get started on installing the new rubber.
Your primary task in installing a new tire is protecting the
tube from damage. You want to make sure the tube is lying
straight throughout the tire, so that it won't chafe on itself
and cause a flat. You want to make sure not to damage the tube
with the end of your tire iron. You want to make sure that the
valve stem is nicely aligned with the hole in the rim, so that
it doesn't rip the stem from the tube upon shifting.
New KTM's often locate the valve stem hole relatively close to
the rim lock hole, which is very convenient for tire changes as
we are about to see, although it does not help the balance any.
However, many other makes will have the valve stem and rim lock
opposite- I'll cover that eventuality in a moment.
Some dual-sporters like to run 2 rim-locks, to improve tire
balance. I've done this, and it does help with balance, but it's
a bitch to install, and no way around it. We'll save that for
the advanced class. Personally, I never bother anymore. I really
can't feel the difference when push comes to shove.
As above, if doing the rear wheel, it is nice to work on the
side opposite the sprocket. Plan accordingly.
I do not use any soap or water- I prefer the tire to be a little
sticky, so that it holds position as I work on it. Others
disagree with me. Experiment and make up your own mind.
Step 1: install the valve stem and add some air to the tube. The
goal is to give the tube enough body to roll itself out of the
way of the tire iron or etc, without making it hard to get the
bead into the dish of the rim. Another important function of
adding air before you start is that it will ensure the tube lies
flat, with no twists or kinks, inside the tire.
You will be hard pressed to flat the tube with your tire iron if
you have added some air first.
Step 2: Install the tube in the tire (I cheated here and put the
tube in the tire before adding air).
HTML http://neduro.smugmug.com/photos/7678714-M.jpg
Step 3: Align tire/tube combo with rim/rimlock combo, so that
valve stem is ready to pass through the hole.
HTML http://neduro.smugmug.com/photos/7678738-M.jpg
Step 4: If the valve stem and rimlock are in the same quadrant
of the wheel, you've got it easy, because you can pass the
valvestem through the hole in the rim, and align the rimlock all
at the same time.
If they are opposite, just worry about aligning the rimlock for
now. I'll show pics of how to deal with the valvestem in a
moment.
Aligning the rimlock- you want to push the rimlock down, so that
it is between both beads of the tire and when the time comes,
can suck the beads up and into the rim as it is designed to do.
Trust me- if the rimlock is not inside the beads, you will not
pass go, and you will not collect $200 no matter how hard you
try.
Here the valve stem has passed through;
HTML http://neduro.smugmug.com/photos/7678746-M.jpg
And here the rimlock has been pushed between the beads and the
tire is ready to be pulled on.
HTML http://neduro.smugmug.com/photos/7678773-M.jpg
Step 5: Pull the first side of the tire down onto the rim,
taking care as always to keep the bead in the dish of the rim.
HTML http://neduro.smugmug.com/photos/7678779-M.jpg
HTML http://neduro.smugmug.com/photos/7678878-M.jpg
If you could not slide the valve stem in at the outset, here's
where you do so:
HTML http://neduro.smugmug.com/photos/7679374-M.jpg
Note that the valve stem is aligned with the hole it will pass
through.
This picture sucks, but all I'm doing is shoving the valvestem
inside the tire.
HTML http://neduro.smugmug.com/photos/7679416-M.jpg
And this picture sucks too, but I'm lifting up the tire from the
opposite side (the one that is already on) so that I can move
the valve stem into the hole.
HTML http://neduro.smugmug.com/photos/7679416-M.jpg
So, now we've got one side of the tire on, the valve stem and
rim lock positioned correctly, and the second side completely
off. We're in the home stretch.
Step 6: The second side of the tire. You want to start with the
portion of the tire immediately adjacent to the valve stem, so
that the bead of the tire won't trap the tube adjacent to the
valve stem.
HTML http://neduro.smugmug.com/photos/7679426-M.jpg
From there, you want to work the shortest route toward the
rimlock. If the rimlock and valve stem are exactly opposite each
other, whichever direction will be fine.
HTML http://neduro.smugmug.com/photos/7679203-M.jpg
And finally, you want to finish the tire off 90 degrees from the
valvestem and rimlock, so that they are not in the way of
getting the bead into the dish of the rim. As always, take care
that the opposite bead is down in the dish…
HTML http://neduro.smugmug.com/photos/7679269-M.jpg
Step 7: Air the tire up. Always fill tubes slowly- not from a
120 psi compressor that's all charged up. Filling the tube too
quickly can result in a twist that does not resolve itself.
Bicycle floor pumps are best, but if you must use a compressor
(I do), just switch it off once it hits 40 psi or so.
Step 8: tighten the rimlock- this should always be done after
adding air to the tire, so that the tube has no chance of being
caught between the rimlock and the tire bead, AND so that the
tire has the best chance to seat evenly.
Done!
HTML http://neduro.smugmug.com/photos/7679683-M.jpg
Mmmm... Fresh Meat...
#Post#: 269--------------------------------------------------
Re: Tire Change Tutorial
By: 690Chick Date: February 11, 2014, 9:28 am
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Do I have to wear sandals while I swap the tires? Thanks for
the info! Does the ABS on the 2014 complicate things?
#Post#: 451--------------------------------------------------
Re: Tire Change Tutorial
By: coarsegoldkid Date: February 26, 2014, 1:55 pm
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Sandals are important. ;) Although I don't have ABS on my KTM
like I do on my BMW street machine, ABS should not present any
problems with either end. Just don't bend any rings(BMW has a
ring). Removing the tire has never been an issue for me. I
always have problems getting the valve stem back in the hole in
the rim with new tires. My tire irons are Motion Pro lightweight
for trail use without the bends in the steel ones shown. The
ones with the bend may facilitate making the job easier. On the
trail or with used tires the sidewalls are usually more flexible
and easier to work. And I don't have rim locks either. I was
thinking about installing one of them however. I think the 690
rims already have holes drilled for them. I wonder if there are
lightweight versions.
#Post#: 1119--------------------------------------------------
Re: Tire Change Tutorial
By: bigbikejohn Date: May 29, 2014, 12:51 am
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A tip to help with the valve stem, I found a tool called a tube
snake that threads into the valve stem in place of the stem
core. You run the wire through the rim, thread it into the tube,
then when you get to the part you need to pull the stem through,
you just have to line it up and yank the handle of the snake and
viola, a valve stem through the rim.
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